Robert Wiseman wrote:
>
> The DPO of my Series I has rounded off all the bleeder screws for the
> brakes. What would any of you suggest as the best way to try and get
> them out so I can replace them.
My thoughts:
Principle #1: Start with the least potentially damaging operations and
only move up as needed.
Principle #2: Patience is a tremendous virtue with frozen threaded
pieces.
Some of the things that I have done in the past:
1. Soaking and tapping are completely non damaging. Soak the piece
with penetrating oil. Liquid wrench is a common product. Much has been
written about Kroil oil, although I have not used it. Apply penetrating
oil, then use a light weight hammer tap the fitting (many light taps).
The hammer tapping does two things, the vibration helps the oil to
penetrate and also may break loose a rusted joint. If you are not in a
hurry, do this several times over a one or two week period.
2. Application of heat is usually helpful, although I would be careful
not to get a brake caliper too hot. Same idea as tapping - the
application of heat leads to differences in thermal expansion and might
break loose a tight fitting.
3. Vise grips, pliers, and the like (including the Sears type) are
potentially going to cause more rounding and I would avoid those if at
all possible.
4. I have a large assortment of sockets and I would try to find a metric
or english socket, preferablly a six sided socket, that fits. I am able
to usually find a socket that is just undersized that I am able to
hammer on to a rounded fitting.
5. Using a very small chisel, tap with the chisel on the outside of the
fitting so as to cause it to back out (I am not explaining it very
well). Use many light taps. Surprisingly successful usually.
6. Once or twice, when nothing else would work, I have welded a nut on
the end of rounded bolts, sometimes on to broken shafts. A MIG welder
is able to weld quickly enough that there is not excessive heat applied.
Good luck.
-Roger
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