Subject: RE: Problems solved, well, some of them
Hi Chris,
HORNS:
about the horns, mine were not even doing it when I used jumpers
so I was planning to buy new ones, but then I was interested in how
they worked and so I drilled the rivets out cleaned them put them
together again and tried them only hearing a click of the membrane
after some adjustment of the top screw I was able to let them sound
nice and clean again.
Try it yourself maybe they start working again with less current
then before after setting the airgap and removing the rust.
WIPER:
Have a look at the park-and-run switch maybe it's melted by a short
It usually is the case when somebody has haphazardly switched the wires
to the wiper switch
Maybe you can free it up again.
I've sometimes used a park-and-run switch of a mini or similar english
car (what is the make lucas or smith?) to replace it, One has to make up
a small clamp though to clamp it down to the case of the wiper motor.
Also check the brushes and rotor maybe polish the rotor and free up the
the brushes will work ?
RED WIRE:
That is probably a auxcillary gauge lightbulb wire, isn't it switcheable
with the panel light switch ??
FLASHER:
are the right side flasher lights on all the time or off ?
if on check the size (wattage) of the bulbs.
BRAKE SWITCH:
can't help you there maybe remove it and check it off the car ?
Regards Bert
Bert Clewits
Sunbeam Alpine series IV GT
http://www.geocities.com/napavalley/vineyard/6386
Chris wrote:--------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 22:35:36 -0800
From: Christopher.Albers(at)bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
Subject: Problems solved, well, some of them
I am slowly discovering the source of many of my electrical problems.
I found out that my dash lights did not work because I didn't have
bulbs in most (idiot) and the ground was loose. I managed to get both
horns working, did some messing around under the dash, and now the
passenger side horn no longer works. When I run a jump from the
battery it works fine. A test light shows it's getting juice. I can
only guess that it's not getting enough (but the light looks just as
bright as it does off the battery) voltage. Can't imagine what's
causing it.
The wiper motor is apparently fried. When I hooked it up and turned it
on it got hot. So I took it out and hooked a jumper up to it. It ran
for a second, but stopped. Now nothing happens, it just gets hot.
Then there's this ground wire that comes out of the harness behind the
gas gauge. Smitty says it attaches to the fuel gauge (I thought it
went to the clock) along with the ground that jumps between the gauges.
The problem is that the ground in the harness is not grounded. I
tried running current thru it, but couldn't find the other end. Smitty
says it's the ground wire that comes out of the harness in the engine
compartment and attaches to the cowl and the warning light simulator.
No luck. Smitty says my wire fried somewhere inside the harness.
Likely?
There's also a solid red wire that comes out of the harness in the same
place as the ground wire. It only has power when I turn on the light
switch. I cannot find a reference to it anywhere on my schematic. Was
hoping to use it as an accessory, since it's the only spare wire coming
from the harness, but apparently I can't do that. Any guesses as to
what it's for?
Can only get the driver's side flashers to work, front and back.
Lastly, the brake lights don't work. I had read in Classic Auto
Restorer that sometimes pressure activated brake switches fail when a
change to silicone fluid is made. Anybody else heard that? I've got
juice going to one of the leads on the sensor, but haven't yet been
able to check the other lead with pressure applied to the pedal.
Any help would be appreciated.
Christopher
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