Static timing is turning the crank to the spot you want the timing to be at
- ie 8 degrees, then turning on the ignition (not starter), then rotating
the distributor until the points crack with electricity. You also need to
be sure this is done when the right piston is at the right point in the
cycle. And, right now, I can't remember. I guess you watch the
distributor rotor as you turn the engine and you stop at the 8 degree spot
when the rotor is close to where the wire for cylinder #1 would be. Am I
right?
>I saw on a TNN show, Shadetree Mechanic, the cam break-in procedure and
>they, like Jarrid, said to run the engine at 2000-2500rpm for 40 min
>without exceeding that rpm. Also said not to load the engine during
>break-in.
My mechanic was very specific about requiring the load and said that the
cam would not break-in right without it. Now my mechanic is very
eccentric. I guess differences of opinion make the world go round. Or is
it flat? Since we are talking about cams, do you have a brand new or
rebuilt cam? So, maybe it does not matter if not.
Jay
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