Well Howdy there Newbie! Never heard that one out of the Marine corps or
pizza context so it threw me off.
"In my experience" ( the most dangerous words to come out of the mouth of a
secnd Leutenant), What you have is normally traced to worn throttle shaftsor
leaks, but you said they were new. I would at least check the throttle
shafts again for leaks. The second thing it that your needle valves are
worn. But you said they were new! The third is that the needle valves were
not properly centralized when installed and are worn out of round . The
shaft at the base will get worn and flow more fuel, but then once it opens,
it doesn't flow as much fuel at the higher end as it should. The way the
carbs are designed, they meter fuel based on the engine vacum. (I haved
guessed you know this). If you have checked all of these things, Then I
would look at actual fuel pressure to the carbs. After that, I would look
for clogs here and there. After that, I would ask the list again or Jarrid
Gross!
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin McLemore <kmclemore(at)hotmail.com>
To: alpines(at)autox.team.net <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 5:57 PM
Subject: PCV Valves and tuning
>OK, so I am a 'newbie' to the list, so howdy everybody. I have been
>watching the discussion about adding a PCV valve.
>
>I've had a devilish time trying to get my 1725 Series V to idle
>properly and while still offering good acceleration performance. It
>seems that I can get it to idile nicely by using my UniSyn and my
>Colourtune to adust things properly, but then the performance really
>lags - in fact, pulling out the choke on hard acceleration does
>wonders - so it's obviously starving for petrol when I put my foot
>in. When I tune it ro run desperately rich at idle, it then runs
>great at speed but naturally idles like a pig - I have to 'idle' it at
>over 1500RPM(!).
>
>I have proper (by the tag #) brand-new Stromberg's (I purchased them
>while in the UK a few years back) with good diaphrams, and a 'working'
>original PCV valve with original flame trap (cleaned), a non-vented
>oil cap, and the dashpots are filled with 30wt. I've installed a new
>intake gasket (including the stainless 'slipper' plate) and checked
>the intake joints for leaks (the old 'pump sprayer full of water'
>method - fairly effective, usually). All seems OK. I am stumped,
>though not the first time, I assure you!
>
>Any clues as to what may be amiss?
>
>Also, is there a source for the original PCV valve, or another which
>will provide a suitable application? I am guessing maybe the one I
>have isn't up to snuff...
>
>(BTW, you may be interested in my car's history: It was purchased new
>in Rejkavik, Iceland by a US serviceman, and the dealer prep included
>stripping out the interior and applying pitch (tar) to the entire
>interior - floors, inner rockers, tunnel, battery box, shelf ...
>everything, then re-installing all the carpets, etc. They also coated
>the full underside, as well. It has done wonders in halting the rust
>bug, as mine has very little - just a few tiny bubbles at the bottom
>of the front wings - with over 140,000 on the clock!)
>
>Kevin McLemore
>
>Series V - #B395015623 - Carnival red - black int - disc wheels.
>Options: O/D, H/T (red), chrome wheel trims, sun visors, ammeter,
>reversing lamp, rear seat cushions, Kangol seat belts, Fiam air horns
>(original dealer install).
>
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
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