RE: new weber

From: Brian Jones (bj(at)tmb.com)
Date: Fri Jul 30 1999 - 14:10:57 CDT


Jarrid,

Got the Weber on and running, but still have a few problems. One of the
bolts stripped the threads in the manifold. Guess I'll have to get a
helicoil kit to fix that??

Engine starts well cold with choke, and hot without, and idles OK, but not
totally smooth. (Is that just because it's not a Honda?) The engine has
always run great, but never idled smoothly. What should the RPM be for the
Weber at idle? It seems inconsistent. Around 900 sometimes, but if I rev
it, it may hang around 1100 for a while. Looks like it returns all the way
to it's resting position. I'm going by the tach in the dash, as that's all
I've got to check it by.

Runs and and accelerates really well, with the exception of brief "choking"
upon initial acceleration from idle. Also happens if I just rev the engine
from idle speed. Too rich?? Too lean???

And one final stupid question. How do I tighten the center bolt on the
manifold??? Socket wrench or regular wrench won't fit in there???

Thanx,

Brian

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jarrid Gross [mailto:JGross(at)econolite.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 1999 10:40 AM
> To: 'Brian Jones'; 'Alpines'
> Subject: RE: new weber
>
>
> Brian wrote,
>
>
> >Just got my new Weber from SS, and a manifold to replace my
> Strombergs that
> >wouldn't keep an idle after my engine fire. Any tips on
> >installing/adjusting??? I'm not even sure which is idle adjustment and
> >which is fuel mixture
>
>
> The idle speed screw connects with the throttle linkage.
> The idle mixture screw is at the bottom of the carb under the primary
> throttle.
>
> The secondary also has a throttle stop, but this is not easy to get at,
> as should have been set at the factory (dont mess with it).
>
> Just to be certain the idle mixture screw is set right (more or less),
> screw it all the way clockwise (gently) until it bottoms out on its seat.
> DO NOT USE ANY FORCE!
> Count the exact number of turns it takes.
>
> It should be 1.5 turs.
> Now screw it back out (anti-clockwise) 2.5 turns.
> We start it out on the rich side to make sure we can keep the engine
> running while we fine tune it. Engines will forgive a rich mixure
> when they are cold, but not a lean one.
>
> It ought to run out of the box, after you get it started, disengage to
> choke, let the engine warm up, adjust your idle speed, then adjust
> the idle mixture screw in or out to get a smooth idle.
> Screw the idle mixture screw in (clockwise) until the engine just begins
> to run rough, then screw the idle mixture screw out until it smooths back
> out.
> Once a smooth idle is found (at the proper RPM), turn the screw
> 1/4 turn anticlockwise to be certain you are running just a tad rich.
>
>
> If you live in a warm area, you can probably skip the following step.
>
> DGxV carbs usually come with the choke plate and choke unloader
> preadjusted
> at the factory, but the choke throttle setting will need to be set on the
> actual application.
>
> The next morning (with the engine cold), be certain that the carb is
> fully choked. Adjust the choke throttle stop so that the engine
> runs at about 2000 to 2500 RPM with the choke throttle stop cam at its
> highest (most choked) postition. This will insure that the engine should
> start and stay running on a very cold morning.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> Jarrid Gross
>



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