Dave,
Jan is right. Also you may not have the proper reducer for the right
temp. Very critical since it will tend to dry to fast before it has a chance
to flow out. The spray gun may not be atomizing the paint enough and you are
throwing oranges at the car! The bigger the glob, the harder it is to flow
out! Smoothy is more of a fish eye eliminator that aids you lest someone
touched the car before you sprayed it with greasy paws or you failed to get
any wax or silicone offf the surface. Another additive that helps is
"Retarder". Added to the final coat, will "retard" drying, keeping it wet
longer therefore better flow. (see final note)
You may need to spray a thicker or extra coat. Is the surface hot as
hell because the sun is shining directly on it? That will dry out paint in a
heartbeat!
One final note. NEVER spray a final coat that is predominately colored
reducer! This is a trick that pro painters do to create a glassy orange peel
free top coat. The problem with this is the UV inhibitors do not stay on the
surface of the paint and the paint job will chalk out (oxidize) very
quickly. You will be long gone before the problem arises, and he will have
his money. Same thing goes with adding to much retarder.
To add to Jan's statements, I think the number one secret to getting a
good job besides proper prep is to mix the right paint systems with
compatible materials. Same systems and you can't go wrong! And 2nd is to
have the right reducer! Kind of hard to speculate without seeing the
situation, but these are pretty much the general statements that cn be made.
-----Original Message-----
From: d_imes <dimes80(at)home.com>
To: Alpines(at)Autox. Team. Net <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 09, 1999 7:07 PM
Subject: Paint
>What is the most common cause of orange peel when painting? Am using
>Centauri with the gloss hardener provided by the paint distributor, Imron
>reducer and 4 drops of Smoothy to a quart. Have a viscosity of 20 after
>reducing the paint.
>
>Dave
>
>
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