Kurt and all...When I built the engine I cleaned all the grooves on the
crank, sealed the bearing caps with "Smitty's Stuff" and the Cam Plug with
"Smitty's Stuff", also hitting the cam plug with a ball peen hammer to make
sure it was home (expanded) . Remembering back to the problem you had that
the cam I had reground was the wrong one and you had to change it makes me
think that perhaps in the installation process..the cam plug was struck ,
possible hard enough to dislodge it enough to cause a leak...That series V
pump in that engine pumps alot of oil at a high pressure....Only way to fix
it is to pull the engine forward enough from the trans to remove the
flywheel and tap in another one....
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Whiteford <A.G.Whiteford(at)gcal.ac.uk>
To: alpines-list <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 3:38 AM
Subject: RE: Oil leaks
> >From: Jarrid Gross <JGross(at)econolite.com>
> >
> >
> >>The only things that could cause leakage at that rate, are an oil galley
> >>plug leak, or if the front or rear main cap is loose or unsealed to the
> >>engine block.
> >
> >Oops, forgot that the cam disc plug can also cause leakage that looks
like
> >this.
> >
> >Jarrid
>
>
> the guy who reground my crank said it's important to clean the oil scrolls
> on the crank thoroughly, as they're supposed to do the job of an oil seal.
>
> p.s. So do I need to use sealant round the rear cam disc plug?
> My new one is a *very* loose fit in it's recess.
> Is there a way of tightening it up when I come to fit it?
> Should I try and flatten it a little before fitting?
>
> Andy
>
>
>
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