Tim Beloney wrote:
> Thanks Steve. i think many of your principles do apply. I never
> thought to look, but it is indeed 100 degrees centigrade! Hmmm.
>
> The electric fan is because there's lot's of traffic in the Bay
> Area. maybe I should have had him go with a manual one.
>
> So, the thermostat I know is working, I guess I need to check the
> radiator cap somehow (?), and make sure the electric fan is coming
> on. I should also measure the true temperature of the water. Maybe
> I should try a different radiator fan too?
>
> thanks!
Tim:
If your engine has been recently rebuilt, it is not a good idea to allow
it to "idle" for 20 minutes, even at 2200 rpm. As Steve has already
pointed out, the air flow pattern in a car at rest is quite different
than what will be experienced when the car is in motion at a reasonable
speed, AND, an engine should be "run in" with a specific variety of rpm
and load conditions after it is rebuilt, and before being subjected to
any overheating conditions.
Second, it does not sound as though you need to spend much time on your
gauge and water temperature, since your car IS overheating according to
the gauge (100 degrees is the boiling point and it was boiling!).
Instead, you should trace the wiring from your electric fan motor to the
sensor, and by-pass the sensor with a switch. Then you will be able to
run the fan continuously if you want, or on the sensor which doesn't
seem to be working (possibly installed in wrong location, since this is
just a switch which closes when the temperature gets high enough?) You
should do this before you change your mechanically driven fan, and you
already have good advice on solving that problem.
Ron Tebo
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 08:47:12 CDT