Art Huston wrote:
> Hello Group,
>
> Thanks to those who responded to my post concerning the changeover to
> negative
> ground and from generator to alternator on my 1960 S1. I have yet to
> decide if I
> will make those changes, but thanks to the group, I know what is
> involved. The data
> plate puzzles me somewhat. The plate looks like new as though it is a
> reproduction
> and is fastened by small screws and not riveted. The vin # is B9001035,
> and there are no other numbers or letters. There is a small oval body
> number tag also. The
> car is painted white, but I see a shade of green paint(lighter than BRG)
> under the dash, under the hood on the cowl where paint is chipped, and
> behind the rear fold down. Are the conv tops different from one ser to
> the next? I am having trouble getting the top stowed, which is probably
> because of something I am doing wrong.
> I have not yet put the magnet to the bodywork but suspect there is
> bondo. The front knock-offs are three ear and the rear are two ear.
> Which is correct for the S1? Has
> anyone switched from knock-offs to bolt-ons? I have other questions
> which I will post later. Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
> Don
> Don
Don:
You probably have a repro plate, but you can check the number by looking at
the number stamped on your body tag (riveted oval on right with 3 digits)
which should be within a few digits of the last 3 digits of your serial #
(Eg: mine is #630 and my serial # is B9000627). Someone else has already
told you the location of the VIN. on the firewall.
Rick at SS has repros of the top stowage instruction decals, and yes, the
later series frames are different.
The two ear "locking nuts" are not correct, although there were two types
of three ear (one
one with "Off" arrow and one plain) and two types of octagon locking nuts
used on the Series I.
Ron Tebo
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