Re: charging voltage

From: Steven L. Finberg (w1gsl(at)MIT.EDU)
Date: Tue May 02 2000 - 16:41:29 CDT


Hi Rob

Don't drive with it charging like that. The high voltage will
do a number on your light bulbs life, and the high continious
current will do in your battery by boiling off all the electrolite.

> BTW,the voltage regulator is not a 4TR and it has no adjusting pot.
>as anyone ever come across non-Lucas replacements?

Yes almost any regulator from a late 60's - 70s alternator equipped
american car will work.

Alternators regulate only the output voltage so the regulator design can be
relativly independent of the alternator size. The basic design of the
alternator magnetics limits the maximum charging current.

There are only 3 wires needed to the regulator, a source of switched 12V
that is on only when the engine is on, Ground and the Field terrminal.

When ever the field terminal is grounded the alternator puts out its
max current. The regulator grounds the field when ever it thinks the
battery voltage is to low. When the bat voltage exceeds the set point
it disconnects the field from ground stopping the charge. It seems your
regulator has failed always connecting the field to ground, or you
have a short in the wiring which has connected the field to ground.

Since it seems someone has put in a replacement regulator, carefully
check a short hasen't developed where the new regulator conector
was spliced in.

There is lots to be said for a new modern alternator if you are going to
be running lots of extra accessories, however the Lucas 10AC is a fine
choice for the Alpine as orginally delivered.

FWIW I think Jarrid's voltage limits are a bit high. At normal temps
anything over 14.5 volts is pushing the system. With the engine
stoped the voltage should be between 12 and 13 V.
With the headlights on it is normal to see the voltage go from 13+V
up to 14.5 as the engine is accelerated from idle.

FWIW 2 The last time my 4TR failed I didn't have time to find a replacemnt
for a couple of weeks... My work around was to wire a switch from
the field to ground. I would watch the ammeter and manually switch in the
field, attempting to ballance the charge and discharge. :-)
Its not as hard as it sounds but I wouldn't recommend running that way..

                        Steve F

*******************************************************************************
Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl(at)mit.edu
PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
*******************************************************************************

To: alpines(at)autox.team.net

    Since I've begun driving my SV again this spring I'm having trouble
with my charging system.The ammeter reads over 15 to the right, clost to
30 at high revs and will not level off. I checked the voltage at the
battery which is 13.3 before I start the car, then goes up to 18 unless
I load it down by turning on the headlights and radiator fan which
brings the ammeter close to 0 and voltage to the high 14's.
    Until I determine the problem is it okay to drive like this, or will
I be damaging something?
     BTW,the voltage regulator is not a 4TR and it has no adjusting pot.
Has anyone ever come across non-Lucas replacements?

Rob Nanzig
67SV



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 08:59:23 CDT