My suggestion FWIW, is to bite the bullet & replace with the 130CS 104-130A GM 1
wire setup. This will run the idiot light, give lots of amps & make replacement
easier as the alternator is roughly the same size as the LUCAS alternator....I'm
going over to this type as I can get them for 20USD each at the local Pull & Save
salvage yards....I've done this in the Jag I have ( xj12 ) and am doing this for
the 66 Husky and the 66 Alpine too.......I'll have a genuine 10AC and 4TR available
after I finish and be able to run those Square 8 pencil beams w/o blowing the
diode leads out of the 10AC like last time.......
"Steven L. Finberg" wrote:
> Hi Rob
>
> Don't drive with it charging like that. The high voltage will
> do a number on your light bulbs life, and the high continious
> current will do in your battery by boiling off all the electrolite.
>
> > BTW,the voltage regulator is not a 4TR and it has no adjusting pot.
> >as anyone ever come across non-Lucas replacements?
>
> Yes almost any regulator from a late 60's - 70s alternator equipped
> american car will work.
>
> Alternators regulate only the output voltage so the regulator design can be
> relativly independent of the alternator size. The basic design of the
> alternator magnetics limits the maximum charging current.
>
> There are only 3 wires needed to the regulator, a source of switched 12V
> that is on only when the engine is on, Ground and the Field terrminal.
>
> When ever the field terminal is grounded the alternator puts out its
> max current. The regulator grounds the field when ever it thinks the
> battery voltage is to low. When the bat voltage exceeds the set point
> it disconnects the field from ground stopping the charge. It seems your
> regulator has failed always connecting the field to ground, or you
> have a short in the wiring which has connected the field to ground.
>
> Since it seems someone has put in a replacement regulator, carefully
> check a short hasen't developed where the new regulator conector
> was spliced in.
>
> There is lots to be said for a new modern alternator if you are going to
> be running lots of extra accessories, however the Lucas 10AC is a fine
> choice for the Alpine as orginally delivered.
>
> FWIW I think Jarrid's voltage limits are a bit high. At normal temps
> anything over 14.5 volts is pushing the system. With the engine
> stoped the voltage should be between 12 and 13 V.
> With the headlights on it is normal to see the voltage go from 13+V
> up to 14.5 as the engine is accelerated from idle.
>
> FWIW 2 The last time my 4TR failed I didn't have time to find a replacemnt
> for a couple of weeks... My work around was to wire a switch from
> the field to ground. I would watch the ammeter and manually switch in the
> field, attempting to ballance the charge and discharge. :-)
> Its not as hard as it sounds but I wouldn't recommend running that way..
>
> Steve F
>
> *******************************************************************************
> Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl(at)mit.edu
> PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
> *******************************************************************************
>
> To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
>
> Since I've begun driving my SV again this spring I'm having trouble
> with my charging system.The ammeter reads over 15 to the right, clost to
> 30 at high revs and will not level off. I checked the voltage at the
> battery which is 13.3 before I start the car, then goes up to 18 unless
> I load it down by turning on the headlights and radiator fan which
> brings the ammeter close to 0 and voltage to the high 14's.
> Until I determine the problem is it okay to drive like this, or will
> I be damaging something?
> BTW,the voltage regulator is not a 4TR and it has no adjusting pot.
> Has anyone ever come across non-Lucas replacements?
>
> Rob Nanzig
> 67SV
-- Art Blackwell Denver, CO" Even in the future nothing works " Dark Helmet " Spaceballs "
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