Jarrid, correct me if I'm wrong but if the car can idle around 1000-1500 RPM
(maybe with your foot on the gas or driving in first gear), the idle circuit
should be working and it may possibly be a very bad vacuum leak.
I would try that first before tearing apart the newly rebuilt carb.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Heuer" <paul.heuer(at)dsto.defence.gov.au>
To: <alpines(at)autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: Zeniths won't idle - HELP
> Hi all,
> My freshly rebuilt Zenith 36WIP3s are installed and set according to
> WSM124. The car accelerates cleanly, no stutter, starts on the button,
> and pulls like a 15 year-old with a Playboy. I couldn't stop smiling as
> I blasted around the neighbourhood at 7:30 this morning (just fitted
> them late last night).
>
> One trouble, she will not idle. Start the car, with my foot on the
> throttle, it revs cleanly. As soon as I remove my foot the revs fall
> smoothly and cleanly - all the way to zero! Adjusting the throttle stop
> screws has no effect, and I adjusted the idle air volume screws one turn
> either way too, just to check. The old carbs (36WIA3s) did idle, that's
> about all they did. Inlet manifold wasn't disturbed in the carb swap, I
> tried blocking the brake vacuum connection too, no effect.
>
> The carbs were rebuilt by a knowledgable fellow, chemically cleaned, and
> rebuild kits put through them.
> I've dropped the car back to him for a look-see today.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? It sounds like the idle circuit is not
> functioning, such that when the throttles shut there is no fuel/air
> getting through. Once the throttles are open, the idle circuit doesn't
> matter.
>
> Cheers,
> Paul.
> S3 in Australia
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Sep 05 2000 - 08:59:28 CDT