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Re[2]: Radiator rebuild

To: Gary McCormick <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Radiator rebuild
From: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 15:27:18 -0800
Gary,

A very eloquent response, couldn't say it better myself because too much 
painting in past years clogged my brain synapses.

In regards to "just background noise in a properly sized engine cooling system" 
- when I rebuilt my 2000 engine I had the engine block hot-tanked. After picking
it up from the machine shop I was shocked to find some casting debris in the 
water jackets of the block. Several long chunks of metal were in there, who 
knows how long, there were no newly broken edge surfaces on the pieces so it 
didn't seem likely to have broken off during the hot-tanking. I managed to fish 
them out, and have not encountered any problems after finishing the rebuild.

If any of you are having cooling problems, it may not be your radiator causing 
the problem. The radiator is just one component to investigate.

Fred - So.SF
BADROC
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1420039&a=10625923&p=37710781

_________________________ Reply Separator 
Subject: Re: Radiator rebuild
Author:  Gary McCormick <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
Date:    1/12/2001 2:52 PM


This issue was discussed at some length here on the list a while back. There are
complex
thermal issues involved - the transfer of heat from the radiator to the ambient 
air is
affected by the amount of total surface area (how many rows), the surface finish
(how
smooth or rough the surface is) which also affects surface area; the surface's 
color
affects radiant heat transfer - it gets pretty complicated pretty quick, but the
bottom
line is that there is plenty of margin built in to radiator design, and unless 
you clog
the cores with paint, a little paint on the thing is not going to affect you too
much one
way or another. The difference in the radiant heat transfer rate from a painted 
radiator
surface as opposed to an unpainted radiator surface (shiny new, or aged to a 
nice dark
patina by atmospheric pollutants... ) is probably not all that much. If your 
design is
that finely drawn it would be better to just chuck it in and go up one number in
row
count. All those surface finish effects are just background noise in a properly 
sized
engine cooling system.
     
Gary McCormick
San Jose, CA
     
Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us wrote:
     
> Sorry to disagree, but painting mine didn't affect cooling at all. It's the 
> core that does all the cooling, not the outer case. As long as you spray a 
> fine mist towards the core to lightly place a tint of the black color, and 
> don't soak it then you won't get any adverse results. The outside case can 
> get heavy coats of paint.
>
> My engine runs cool, even in 100 plus temperature days and heavy loads. 
>
> Fred - So.SF
> '66 2L
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
> Subject: Re: Re[2]: Radiator rebuild
> Author:  "Patrick P. Castronovo" <slick1@mohaveaz.com> 
> Date:    1/12/2001 1:47 PM
>
> Painting your Radiator cuts down on the cooling.  Painting it does not cut
> down on the rust, as it usually rusts from the inside-out.  I no longer have 
> my radiators painted
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us>
> To: <az589@lafn.org>; <mickth@hotmail.com>;
> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>; <CalSpeed@aol.com> 
> Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 11:39 AM
> Subject: Re[2]: Radiator rebuild
>
>
> > Same here, I paid the same for a 3-row, always ran cool. But I called 
> > around for estimates and the prices varied from $130 to $250 in the SF 
> > area. $150 is very reasonable.
> >
> > Note: you can save money by painting it yourself. I got that tip from a 
> > radiator shop guy, and he told me their paint is cheap low quality paint 
> so
> > it's better to do it yourself.
> >
> > Fred - So.SF
> >
> > ______________________________ Reply Separator 
> > Subject: Re: Radiator rebuild
> > Author:  CalSpeed@aol.com
> > Date:    1/12/2001 2:19 PM
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 1/12/01 6:16:03 PM !!!First Boot!!!, az589@lafn.org 
> writes:
> >
> > << I recommend a 4 row core if you plan to recore the rad. >> 
> >
> > Wow... a four core?  Maybe in the SoCal Traffic jams in 100 degee heat. 
> ;>)
> > I run with a three core here in SF with temps at around 60-75 year round. 
> > Except now of course.  I paid $130.
> >
> > Calspeed

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