Gordon is right about shifting the rear end. Once you start, it'll be hard
to determine when to stop, and these parts see so much vibration that
slotting the mounting points will end up in the rear end alignment migrating
to-and-fro over time.
I have found that a good method to line things up is to drive behind your
own car, and see if it is 'crabbing' down the road. (you see this on a lot
of 4x's, especially full-size Blazers) If it is not, then it is just your
fenders are screwy. If it is, and you 'straighten it up', then your wheels
will be straight but the frame will be a canted from corner to corner. First
thing noticed will be that the steering wheel position when going straight
has moved. (no big, right?) But after that you'll notice that right turns
feel different than left turns, as now your front suspension pivot points
are no longer parallel/perpendicular to the direction of travel. Off-camber
roads and bumps that un-weight the car will point this out, when the car
comes down it will have a twisting bounce, and may want to leap around in
the lane. (airplane landings when the two sets of wheels don't touch
together)
Okay, I'll shut up now,
Fergus O
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