Agreed, and I certainly appreciate everyone's help. The car ran pretty
well before this water pump/electric fan operation and I didn't change
anything else - timing, point gap, etc. It all stayed connected. The
car runs pretty much the same - in fact, aggrivatingly well - except
for the overheating and pressure building in the coolant.
Adam
--- Ronnie Day <ronday@home.com> wrote:
> > Well, after flushing and burping and still overheating, I'm pretty
> sure
> > it's the head gasket. The car actually runs cool enough if it just
> > idles, but once it gets up to speed and under load it heats up too
> > quickly.
> >
> > I noticed that the water level in the overflow tank keeps rising
> and it
> > is covered with a frothy white foam. I assume this is from the air
> in
> > the system pushing the water out and some of the air rising to the
> top
> > (the foam). If I'm mistaken about this, please let me know.
> Otherwise
> > the parts are going to be ordered soon, the electric fan is staying
> on,
> > and the head's coming off and going into a machine shop.
>
> It could be the head gasket. In fact the "white foam" sounds like oil
> in the
> water. Air bubbles just dissipate, doesn't any kind of residue. Have
> you run
> a compression check? Can't hurt, but then you can have a leaking head
> gasket
> that's not into a cylinder.
>
> Regarding the timing, if it's off it could cause over heating above
> idle,
> too. Set the points first and then set the timing. Does it still
> overheat?
> Changing the point gap or the dwell changes the timing. That's why
> you set
> the points first, then do the timing.
>
> Like I said before, be methodical, do one thing at at time. Don't
> jump to
> "obvious" conclusions. Verify suspicions by testing. Trust me it'll
> cost you
> less in the end.
>
> HTH, Ron
>
> Ronnie Day
> ronday@home.com
> Dallas/Ft. Worth
> '71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
> '73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
>
=====
Adam
'70 1600 SPL311-28181
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
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