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Re: Exhaust and other questions

To: robinkrause@hotmail.com, ambradley@yahoo.com,
Subject: Re: Exhaust and other questions
From: "Andrew Murphy" <solex67@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:29:59 -0700
All,

I cannot sing the praises enough of putting in a flex flange between the 
header and the rest of the exhaust system. I had one on my 67 2000 and drove 
the car hard for 13,000 miles with nary a rattle. I just recently took the 
header off and it is not cracked and the flange will be cleaned and 
re-attached when I put the car back together.

It allows your exhaust system to "flex" and will help in keeping your 
header/manifold from cracking and causing P.O. muffler shop headaches in the 
first place.

If you have the exhaust system out of the car, put one of these things in.

Andrew Murphy
1964 1500
1967 2000 Solex
SoCalROC


From: "Robin Krause" <robinkrause@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: "Robin Krause" <robinkrause@hotmail.com>
To: ambradley@yahoo.com, datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust and other questions

I had the same problem.  We wound up using a detached hacksaw blade, which
worked pretty well for a one time deal.

The stock headers are a lot cheaper than the stock manifolds and easy to
come by.

Robin

P.S.  Gordon Glasgow had a great suggestion, which I haven't tried yet.  You
are going to have a few inches that you'll need to have a muffler shop
patch.  Gordon recommended having them use flex pipe which will allow the
exhaust system to be adequately anchored without putting so much stress on
the header.  Gordon, correct me if I translated that badly.

 >From: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
 >Reply-To: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
 >To: datsun <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
 >Subject: Exhaust and other questions
 >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:17:13 -0700 (PDT)
 >
 >Some doofus muffler shop cut the flange off the end of the exhaust
 >manifold and welded the downpipe directly onto it (P.O. before P.O.).
 >What is the best (still inexpensive) tool to cut through the pipe?
 >
 >I'm buying a header because it's cracked anyway.  Should I take the car
 >to a good muffler shop and having them fabricate something or should I
 >buy the exhaust from Rallye or another vendor?  If through a vendor,
 >any preferences (price, quality, ease of installation)?
 >
 >Rallye is a bit pricey ($450 or so for the exhaust system) and I'm not
 >concerned about originality but do want quality and an attractive sound
 >and tailpipe.
 >
 >Now for something completely different.  What is a good replacement
 >carb return spring?
 >
 >Finally, the '70 has a thingie (technical term there) on the intake
 >manifold that prevents the car from going immediately to idle in third
 >and fourth (or so I've been told).  Two wires go to it; one is busted.
 >Do I want this thing functional, or is it best left disabled?
 >
 >
 >
 >=====
 >Adam
 >'70 1600 SPL311-28181
 >http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
 >Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
 >a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

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