There are 2 types of thread locker. There's medium strength (usually
blue) and high strength (usually red). Fasteners that have the medium
strength applied will break loose with hand tools. The high strength
requires heat. I rarely use the high strength but a PO used it on my
cam cover studs, which broke off flush with the top of the head when I
tried to remove them. Blue is OK for most applications, but should
never be used on rod bolts if you use the torque method for tightening
the nuts. For flywheel bolts (like rod bolts), they're pre-stressed so
much, if torqued properly, that they shouldn't loosen anyway. I've
never seen the 2 bolt locking tabs or star washers on flywheel bolts.
Gary
ambradley@attbi.com wrote:
>I was thinking of using loctite on my flywheel and engine backing plate bolts,
>but I'm concerned about the info on the back of the package. Once loctited,
>to remove the bolts, I need to heat them to 500 degrees? Does that mean that
>once I do this, if I need to pull the flywheel off for any reason, I'm going
>to have to take a torch to the bolts? Is this a good thing, or should I skip
>the loctite?
>
>Also, I don't have the two-bolt locking tabs and was told many cars use star
>washers, so that was my plan. Is using star lock washers a problem, or should
>I go buy a set of the original two-bolt bend up things?
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