On the serious side, what do those of you who have done the conversion think
of Greg's suggested modifications to the existing "how-to" article on
311s.org?
` ___ '
Pete - (O o) -
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Lake Forest Park, WA
1966 1600 (SPL311-00799)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@Autox.Team.Net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Greg Hare
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 2:57 PM
To: datsun-roadsters@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Volvo Brake write up long version - hope you like it :-)
[snip]
So from a technical standpoint my modifications to the write-up on 311s.org
are very minor:
1) Either buy shorter (not sure how much) banjo bolts or be prepared to
grind them down so they don't bottom out. Have a thin wall socket on hand to
tighten the bolts, or else you might need to grind out a little clearance in
the manifold to get a thick-wall socket or wrench in. Clean out the hole too
when done grinding.
2) Be prepared to grind the threads on the rubber hoses to fit, or have your
manifold made with that connection deeper. I used Nissan original on one and
NAPA swap on the other, they both needed grinding.
3) You need 1-1/2 inch long bolts to hold the calipers on; the article has
1-1/4 listed in the parts write-up, and 1-3/8 in the body of the text. You
may also want to get some shims and extra washers to get the calipers
roughly centered on the rotors (it doesn't need to be exact), I certainly
needed them. You might even need 1-3/4 long bolts if you use enough shims,
just be sure they aren't impacting the rotors on the back side.
4) I don't see how you could mount the brake hardware without grinding down
the rotors, so I don't think you can do this project by grinding out
clearance in the calipers. The write-up says a little under 11-1/4 inch
diameter for the rotor, but it's really more like a little less than 11-1/8
( the 11.1125 appears correct).
5) The banjo bolts come with 2 crush washers each, so you don't necessarily
need extras, but if you have to tighten and remove them a few times they
harden and won't seal so you might want some extras. I prefer copper to
aluminum myself.
6) You don't have to take the rotors off the hubs if you are getting the
edges done on a brake lathe. At a regular machine shop you might have to.
Check with your shop first.
7) Replace the rubber brake lines, and be ready for at least one steel line
to be destroyed while you're at it. Might consider getting the two front
steel lines from a vendor ahead of time or be ready with some generic or
flex braided steel lines (I like the braided but I am poor so not yet)
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