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Re: Flywheel woes

To: "kas kastner" <kaskas@cox.net>, <Fubog1@aol.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Flywheel woes
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 12:02:42 -0700
Thanks all for the suggestions.  Today I'm putting it back together with
replacement standard bolts and will be taking Kas's advice and keeping my
revs below 6000.  I think I'll have to take this apart again and do it
right, but it sounds like a fall project.  BTW, this is a 69 motor with the
longer crank snout and lighter flywheel.  Thanks all, Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kas kastner" <kaskas@cox.net>
To: <Fubog1@aol.com>; <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>; <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: Flywheel woes


> I guess we'll go over this again for the tenth time. The problem is that
the
> harmonic of the TR-6 engine causes the flywheel to move back and forth
> (wobble) and this prys the bolts out of the crank or STRETCHES the bolts.
> When this happens the bolts are found bent over or loose or even out of
the
> threaded crank.  Larger bolts, yes, but the main thing is that the bolts
> must be of a type that do not STRETCH. The only way to solve this on an
> immediate basis is to lower the revs below 6000 as the secondary vibration
> occurs at 5800 and is so strong it moves the flywheel edge back and forth
> over a 1/2". Lots of hardware companies sell the type bolt you need for
this
> crank.  Buy the best you can find. REMEMBER hard no stretching bolts. NOT
> strong, but hard. Grade eight is not near good enough for the TR-6.
>
> The GT-6 is a totally different crankshaft and does not have anywhere near
> the problem. What fixes the GT-6 will no doubt FAIL with the TR-6. The
only
> similarity of the engines in this department is that they are both have 6
> cylinders.
>
> In the end you want the lightest flywheel and the lightest clutch you can
> come onto.  My TR-6 had a total weight of BOTH these components of 13
> pounds. I also had six bolts in the end of the crank and of an improved
> diameter and quality. You can fix it, but is takes some little doing.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Fubog1@aol.com>
> To: <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>; <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 7:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Flywheel woes
>
>
> > To add to the good advice by Russ. ideally you want a bolt with a large
> > underhead bearing area & correct grip length. Also make sure that the
> register in
> > back of wheel & rear of crank is pefectly clean & flat, & make sure
there
> are
> > no raised spots around bolt hole chamfer. Also make sure that the
locating
> > dowel is a tight fit in the wheel, the fasteners clamp the wheel, the
> dowel takes
> > the shear load. If the wheel is loose on the dowel the bolts will be
> subject
> > to shear load & they WILL fail!
> > Good luck!
> > Glen

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