Steve, makeup brass pins. These are then "driven into pre-drilled holes.
As teh t/w wears down, the crank may contact the brass pin. Since it
is brass, and much softer than the thrust surface ont eh crank. the
crank will not be harmed. BTW, end float should be around.004" Ted
Gt6steve@AOL.COM wrote:
>Greetings Amici,
>
>Last race the GT6 endured the destruction of the thrust face on my brand new
>hi-Dollar crankshaft. Initially I suspected I'd put the rear thrust washer
>in backwards but when I found it in the pan I confirmed this was not the
>case. As yet, I don't have a theory as to why it failed but I'm leaning
>toward
>inadequate clearance for the RPM's. It was right at .006.
>
>My proposed solution will be to grind the crank rear thrust face smooth
>again and add a spacer behind the rear thrust washer to compensate. I'm
>looking
>to set the block up in the drill press and bore both faces from the top in
>the relieved area of the washers. Here's where I get a bit loose. I'm
>imagining I'd use brass flathead screws in probably 6-32 thread????????
>Anybody
>have any suggestions or comments on how they did it? I've read for years
>these
>need to be "silver-pinned" but I've no clue what that is?
>
>Any help would be appreciated...
>
>Thanx, Steve Smith
>
>
>
--
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
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