Jim,
Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the control arms
in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber if I remember my
calculations correctly. You can do it without removing the control arms
from the fulcrum. Just remove the four bolts holding the fulcrum to the
tower and the two bolts through the ball joint and remove the whole
assembly. Then hold the fulcrum and spin the control arms 180 degrees then
bolt the whole assembly on the other side of the car. This keeps the front
control arm in the front but reverses the fulcrum.
Preferred camber will depend on the tires. The Hoosier A6's that I run for
autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees. They are 225/45-15 on 7" rims. To
get that much camber and to keep the tires clear of my unmodified fenders I
reversed the fulcrums and then slotted the bolt holes to slide them in even
further. I just took the worn out tires off and the fronts wore fairly
even. The rears were also set at 3 degrees but wore more on the inside from
squatting under power. I backed it off to 2 degrees to see how that works
out. Also changed to a slightly stiffer spring.
Richard Good
--------------------------------------------------
From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116@att.net>
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 8:43 PM
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Adjusting front camber on a TR6
> I can't find the email now but an FOTer told be me a simple way to get
> negative
> camber. I believe it is to reverse the upper wishbone and I believe
> it gives
> approx. 2 1/2 degrees of negative camber. Right now I have 3/4
> degree of
> negative camber using shims and I am getting considerable wear on
> the outside
> shoulder of my tires. My TR6 is used exclusively for
> autocrossing and an
> occasional hillclimb with no street use. What is the
> maximum camber I should
> have without causing issues? Also, what are the
> issues that start happening
> with extreme camber (2 1/2 to 3 degrees)? Thanks
> for any help on this. Jim
> _______________________________________________
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