Before I answer that, let me explain why I believe we have very good motor
life. Without getting too philosphical, FGR has a very simple (fanatically
deliberate and careful) way of preparing the cars.
That is to say, I'd have to admit that I cannot really even take credit for
most of it. Rather, I am very lucky to have just studied the Factory Manual,
Kas' words and writtings; and mostly just collected race info, cars, and
parts... while surrounding myself with best racing GT6's for my whole life.
For the most part I think of myself as a curator. I thank John Reed, my dad,
Dennis Moeller, and anyone that ever touched the yellow car... Because these
guys gave me the templates for success in the small world of GT6 racing.
That is NOT to say that I just leave the cars as they sit.
What I try to do (first and foremost) is make absolutly sure that they are
prepared to the last Benchmark of success before every time I take one out.
Since I started racing the cars, I have been doing just that, and get faster
and faster every time I get in to drive.
40 years ago, when I was just a baby pup my "Family" started racing GT6's in
showroom stock. The cars were pretty much STOCK. My Dad and John drove the
friggin wheels off them. (My dad's car has been brought back to this original
showroom stock configuration.) The other 2 cars, some 44 years later; have
evoled into what they are today... essentially true and period correct D
production demons with each their own cheats and tweeks. Lots of custom
upgrades of parts or systems that failed as well as lots of original and
well-maintained GT6 parts. Between the 3 race cars in the stable we have
documents for over 400 race weekends. And yes, we have had some big fails and
big fixes. We have struggled in certain areas but that often speaks to budgets
rather than balls.
In all those races, one fist remains closed when I start counting motor
failures. We simply don't have them.
To answer your question, our super trick motor (AND 1972 SCCA spec legal in
every way; lovingly developed by John Reed) is on a SIX race weekend "rebuild
to spec/freshen-up" cycle.
The yellow car... You won't believe this; I retired this motor last weekend
after it's 20th weekend of racing! I just felt that the time had come.
So the spare motor (Prepared to the LAST KNOWN BENCHMARK SUCCESS) will go in
next next while we freshen it up)
I figure the difference in cam and gearing define the parameters of longevity.
The gearing and cam in the yellow car will peak perforance at about 7000rpm and
Zippy will rev past 8000 any time you have the balls to take it there.
ALL the motors have STOCK cranks, STOCK rods (lightened and race preped in
every way), venolia pistons, 2 carbs (stockish...he, he) and a shortly shaved
head that delivers about 12.75 to 1. Roller rockers=NO.
To be frank, Most of what has been happening with blown GT6 race motors has
happened only because of lack of proper attention to details accertained by
working within the parameters of an existing LAST KNOWN BENCHMARK OF SUCCESS.
If you are beaten by a GT6 motor, your motor has not been set to this
specification.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
"Balls out GT6 race car museum" Curator:
"SB" 1968 Triumph GT6 #72
"Captain Dirt" 1969 DP Triumph GT6+ #27
"Zippy" 1969 DP Triumph GT6+ #69
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Dunn <edunn@qualityfueltrailers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2014 11:48:18
To: jason@multivintage.com<jason@multivintage.com>
Cc: Fot<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Fot] Low oil pressure after overheating
Jason, what kind of typical life (hours, etc.)are you getting on your GT6 motor?
Ed Dunn
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
jason@multivintage.com
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 3:57 PM
To: Vangoughv; Fot; Tony Drews
Cc: Fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Low oil pressure after overheating
Vince, for the GT6... FGR runs only redline straight 50wt racing synthethic In
all our race cars. We have been using this for years. Expensive yes! But don't
argue with years of success in GT6 race motors. Zippy has run on this for many,
many, years. In my opinion there is no substitute.
Nfi,
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Vangoughv <vangoughv@hotmail.com>
To: Tony Drews<tony@tonydrews.com>
Cc: fot@autox.team.net<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Low oil pressure after overheating
What type and viscosity motor oil are you using?
Newer Alloy style oil pump or a re-cored original cast type?
Vince
> On Aug 22, 2014, at 1:50 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> I've been thinking about this one. Nothing about overheating SHOULD
> cause
the oil pressure change unless you managed to get water into the oil, I'd
think. I'd start with removing and cleaning the oil pressure relief valve in
the oil filter head. If you get a piece of dirt holding that open, you'll see
low pressure at idle.
>
> Of course the advice about "check the pressure gauge" is good too.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 08:30 PM 8/20/2014, damys@charter.net wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm new to the group and hope I can get some advice. My son and I
>> are building a GT6 into a racer and need some help. We've had the
>> engine rebuilt with some mods. Ross pistons, WBC cam, roller
>> rockers, head shaved to approx. 10-1 compression, mild port job and balanced.
>>
>> At Elkhart last weekend we overheated the engine and now there is no
>> oil pressure at idle. The engine runs strong, no noise, and still
>> has pressure when cold. As the engine warms the pressure drops.
>>
>> I will add a heavier radiator cap and a shroud to direct air into the
>> stock style (aluminum) radiator. It's been suggested I shim the
>> pressure relief valve to increase overall oil pressure.
>>
>> Any advice on resolving the oil and temp problems.
>>
>> The engine easily turns 6500 RPM's but we have the MSD set at 6000.
>> The engine has approx. 1000 miles on it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave Amys
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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