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Careful of the solid =93olive=94. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If yo=
u put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt v=
ia Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
To: John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
* I got everything together this morning.
*
* I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws sh=
own in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional scr=
ews should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow=
thread into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and the three smal=
ler holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins w=
hich were present on some units, though not mine.). In any case after a lo=
t of good and patient advice from folks over on this list and the AH Experi=
ence site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the three screws and =
passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the traffic=
ator.
*
* Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be spl=
it to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me by =
David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it hom=
e. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
*
* This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at al=
l during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now r=
eady and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
*
* Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.=
Curt
So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as =
well as 5BA as you correctly said.
Best regards
On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.n=
Gentlemen,
First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See attached.
Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one st=
arted, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
-Curt
m>> wrote:
I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue=
I have 2 suggestions.
Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common g=
lue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are =
assembling the assembly?
Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinne=
r, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would =
be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay i=
n place.
Gary Hodson
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
> I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
> 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
> 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
> Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
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>
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>
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ll@earthlink.net
>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
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gmail.com
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e
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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ster@gmail.com
--
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
ritt@gmail.com
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
</head>
<body>
<div>Careful of the solid =93olive=94. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. =
If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.=
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healey=
s@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">
<ul>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Ca=
libri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">I got everything together this mor=
ning. </span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-f=
amily:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">I was under the mistak=
en impression that the three flathead screws shown in the earlier photo sho=
uld stay in place and that three additional screws
should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow th=
read into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and the three sm=
aller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins=
which were present on some units, though
not mine.). In any case after a lot of good and patient advice from =
folks over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error =
of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them through the countersun=
k holes on the plate and into the trafficator. </span></li><li><=
br style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,G=
eneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">
</li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Taho=
ma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">Despite varying opinions as t=
o whether or not the olive should be split to allow for installation I was =
able to get the solid one sent to me by
David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it ho=
me. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully. </span></l=
i><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,=
Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">This is one of those j=
obs that we will probably do only once if at all during our ownership but i=
n case there is a "next time" for me I am now
ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.</span></li><li><s=
pan style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">Thanks all for your pa=
tience--Michael Oritt</span></li></ul>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John=
Harper via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@a=
utox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Curt
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of B=
A as well as 5BA as you correctly said.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis=
Arndt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"=
_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gentlemen,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See =
attached.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins. &n=
bsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, =
get one started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.<=
/div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Curt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <=
<a href=3D"mailto:warthodson@aol.com"; target=3D"_blank">warthodson@aol.com<=
/a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black; font:12pt "Comic Sans MS",sans-serif">=
I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your i=
ssue I have 2 suggestions.
<div>Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as com=
mon glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you=
are assembling the assembly?</div>
<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longe=
r, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment=
? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw starte=
d enough that it would stay in place.</div>
<div>Gary Hodson <br>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica; font-size:10pt; color:black">
<div id=3D"x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_=
-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034">
<div>
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div id=3D"x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_=
-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034yqtfd38455">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br clear=3D"none">
> refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br clear=3D"none">
> having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br clear=3D"n=
one">
><br clear=3D"none">
> 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
ready to<br clear=3D"none">
> attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br clear=3D"none">
> head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
holes in the<br clear=3D"none">
> stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br clear=3D"none">
> which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce's thinness<br clear=3D"none">
> there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br clear=3D"none">
> attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br clear=3D"none">
> invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br clear=3D"none">
> something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br clear=3D"none">
> stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
start exerting<br clear=3D"none">
> force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
be heated,<br clear=3D"none">
> etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br clear=3D"none">
> cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br clear=3D"none">
> buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br clear=3D"none">
> to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br clear=3D"=
none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br clear=3D"none">
> I would like to get the car back on the road.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> _______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
> Support Team.Net <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www=
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-- <br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Best wishes
<div><br>
</div>
<div>John Harper</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>AHC UK 100 Register Secretary</div>
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s/michael.oritt@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
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r>
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