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Michael,
Your trafficator was properly installed for 65 years with no problems, so
the fact that you cannot get enough bite so to speak on the screws is most
likely due to the fact that there are six holes in the back of the flat
plate of the StatorTube, and only three of them are countersunk to accept
the 4BA screws. It sounds to me like you used the wrong three holes!
BTW, Michael has a BN1 with a non-adjustable steering, so just the long
stator tube.
Cheers,
Curt
On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Bob--
>
> That all makes sense and that explains the three smaller holes in the
> stator tube disc but there were no alignment pins in the control head
> when I removed it, nor were there holes for any. I suppose I could
> carefully drill some holes for pins once I get things assembled though they
> were apparently not necessary prior to my removal. In any case thanks for
> the explanation.
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:09 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>>
>> With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short
>> stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three
>> alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small
>> holes on the short stator tube. The copper ground ring has to fit
>> around them too.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> > I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> > refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> > having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> > 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> > attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> > head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> > stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> > which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> > there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> > attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> > invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> > something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> > 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> > stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> > force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> > etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> > cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> > buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> > to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> > Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> > I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> >
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>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
>> >
>>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Michael,<div><br></div><div>Your trafficator was properly =
installed for 65 years=C2=A0with no problems, so the fact that you cannot g=
et enough bite so to speak on the screws is most likely=C2=A0due to the fac=
t that there are six holes in=C2=A0the=C2=A0back of the flat plate of the S=
tatorTube, and only three of them are countersunk to accept the 4BA screws.=
It sounds to me like you used the wrong three holes!</div><div><br></div><=
div>BTW, Michael has a BN1 with a non-adjustable steering, so just the long=
stator tube.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Cur=
t</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail=
_attr">On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=
=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net=
</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">=
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)=
">Bob--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">That al=
l makes sense and that explains the three smaller holes in the stator tube =
disc but there were no alignment pins in the control head when=C2=A0I remov=
ed it, nor were there holes for any.=C2=A0 I suppose I could carefully dril=
l some holes for pins once I get things assembled though they were apparent=
ly not necessary prior to my removal.=C2=A0 In any case thanks for the expl=
anation.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 5:09 PM Bob Haskell <<a href=3D"m=
ailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" target=3D"_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a=
>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Mic=
hael,<br>
<br>
With regards to the three screws holding the control head to the short <br>
stator tube, there should be more thread engagement. There are three <br>
alignment pins on the backside of the control head that fit into small <br>
holes on the short stator tube.=C2=A0 The copper ground ring has to fit <br=
>
around them too.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A01. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
ready to<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
holes in the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce's thinness<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A02. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
start exerting<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
be heated,<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I would like to get the car back on the road.<br>
><br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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