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Re: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)

To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>, <land-speed@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)
From: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:14:46 -0400
Yeah those dead Sears air compressors a hard to find. Might try your
next-door neighbors garage. Or you could try some J-B weld on the 1/4 and
1/2 round balls.

JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>; "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)


> Okay I need some technical advise here... I am working with the
> Vibrator....( old sears air compressor pump...) and the little Steel
> balls... fell out on the floor.... I am wondering what the Sequence is for
> putting them back in... do I use the Half Spheres First or the Quarter
> ones... and I have 4 of the Round ones.... ( out of about 16 total)  Do I
> use them sparingly between the Half Rounds?
>
> You know I have a Tig welder.... I think I can re-weld the Aluminum Race
for
> the bearings.... it's only 3/8ths of an inch out of Round........( on each
> side for a total of 3/4's )
>
> Come on Guys... this aint' Rocket Science ... Okay and about the Oil...
> should I use some of that there JB weld to Patch those Holes where the
Rods
> came out?  or should I try and Tig that Too.... I am worried about the
added
> Heat distorting the Cases...  These are Classic's you know....  I mean how
> Many Dead Sears air compressor Pumps are there out there?  Geez they
didn't
> make many of these....
>
> Keith... ( yeah I am getting out of fixing this thing and Mowing the lawn
to
> boot!!!)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:28 AM
> Subject: Re: Cooling
>
>
> > I think I might want to put a radiator inside a tank of water and do the
> > heat exchange that way.. Might even work on a camero too.. LOL Oh your
> > jets.. you need to make the idle jets on the metering block about .002
> > larger all 4 of them. 2 on each metering block. and have to make the
> > high speed air bleeds .002 smaller to get the mains pulling harder..all
> > 4 of those. They are on top next to the bowl vents. The closest ones to
> > the vent tube. The idle jets  should be .037 now !! need to be .039 or
> > .040.. I don't know what size the air bleed are to be honest.. if you do
> > this right will have to turn in the idle screws about a turn or so to
> > get best idle speed.I generally turn them in till I get the best
> > cleanest idle with no rpm drop then back them out about 1/8 turn or less
> > for a race car it it were emission street type car will do the opposite
> > and turn them in from cleanest idle about 1/8 turn if there are any
> > problems with unburned HC..but do we really care about that??
> >
> > Keith Turk wrote:
> > >
> > > His is a Home made aluminum tank.... I was thinking if I ever did that
I
> > > would add structure to the inside that would prevent it... the
Radiator
> in
> > > the Camaro has bolts through the large tank area to keep it together
in
> the
> > > event of an over temp... hence it only Poofed.... K
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > > To: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> > > Cc: <ardunbill@webtv.net>; <speed@autoxland-.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:12 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Cooling
> > >
> > > > might want to get one that is tested by someone that makes one could
> get
> > > > real ugly if a compressed air tank blows up at 22 psi..I sure would
> not
> > > > want to be sitting next to it..
> > > > Dahlgren
> > > >
> > > > John Beckett wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a pressurized and vented tank system in my car right now,
but
> > > only to
> > > > > 7 lbs. It works OK, but I think there  is room for improvement.
May
> step
> > > up
> > > > > to 15lbs and see if the tank will accept that pressure level
before
> > > jumping
> > > > > to 22lbs.
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: <ardunbill@webtv.net>
> > > > > To: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 10:24 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Cooling
> > > > >
> > > > > > Sure, no question that a pressure system is a better basic
> principle
> > > > > > both from better ability to take the heat out of the metal, and
a
> > > higher
> > > > > > boiling point in an overheating situation.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A pressure system makes the cooling tank setup somewhat more
> > > > > > complicated, have to use a tank that can stand the pressure.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Good point that adequate venting is important for a vented tank,
> Elmo
> > > > > > Gillette pointed out to me that if boiling does occur, with a
> small
> > > > > > vent, the pressure can't get out fast enough and the tank will
get
> > > > > > distorted.  I suppose if the pressure buildup was too severe it
> could
> > > > > > rupture the tank.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have my tank in the trunk with a bulkhead between it and the
> > > driver's
> > > > > > compartment, so even if it did  rupture, the water would be on
the
> > > floor
> > > > > > and unlikely to reach the driver in his seat in the cage.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Back to Bonneville practice, I understand there are a few
pressure
> > > tank
> > > > > > systems in use, and a lot of vented ones.  Could someone who
> actually
> > > > > > knows, comment?  Cheers,  ArdunBill
> > > > > >
> > > >
> >
>




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