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Re: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)

To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
Subject: Re: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)
From: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 15:39:18 +0000
Keith,

When I ran the Machine & Fabrication business, we had a tumber for deburring
little parts that had a shaft supported by two pillow block bearings with a
weight with an off-set bore about 2 lbs. in weight and a step pulley to change
the speed. It thing worked great...the machine was mounted in 6 inch thick
rubber pads...it was a controlled earthquake!!!

Good Luck,
joe

Keith Turk wrote:

> I am thinking of ways to whittle them little things to a semi round after
> the Jb Weld.... Aside from being funny....
>
> Just exactly how do they Make a Bearing.... Curious and honest question....
> ( No I don't want to make my own..)
>
> I gave up.... and Made an off Balance Mandrel with adjustable belt tension
> and Multi speed pulleys to control the Ips of Vibration to the Exact
> Level... ( still have to get the Pulley's monday but that is the Plan ) and
> it's got a set of throw wieghts that go with it... to add or subtract from
> the total hit... and industrial Bearings with Real Grease fitting's....
>
> I hate it when you Just gotta quit cobbling and do something right....
>
> Keith ( Why Yes My first call in the Morning is going to be to Vibco for a
> REAL Vibrator.... )
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>; "dahlgren"
> <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)
>
> > Yeah those dead Sears air compressors a hard to find. Might try your
> > next-door neighbors garage. Or you could try some J-B weld on the 1/4 and
> > 1/2 round balls.
> >
> > JB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>; "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:22 AM
> > Subject: Vibrator again ( NO LSR)
> >
> >
> > > Okay I need some technical advise here... I am working with the
> > > Vibrator....( old sears air compressor pump...) and the little Steel
> > > balls... fell out on the floor.... I am wondering what the Sequence is
> for
> > > putting them back in... do I use the Half Spheres First or the Quarter
> > > ones... and I have 4 of the Round ones.... ( out of about 16 total)  Do
> I
> > > use them sparingly between the Half Rounds?
> > >
> > > You know I have a Tig welder.... I think I can re-weld the Aluminum Race
> > for
> > > the bearings.... it's only 3/8ths of an inch out of Round........( on
> each
> > > side for a total of 3/4's )
> > >
> > > Come on Guys... this aint' Rocket Science ... Okay and about the Oil...
> > > should I use some of that there JB weld to Patch those Holes where the
> > Rods
> > > came out?  or should I try and Tig that Too.... I am worried about the
> > added
> > > Heat distorting the Cases...  These are Classic's you know....  I mean
> how
> > > Many Dead Sears air compressor Pumps are there out there?  Geez they
> > didn't
> > > make many of these....
> > >
> > > Keith... ( yeah I am getting out of fixing this thing and Mowing the
> lawn
> > to
> > > boot!!!)
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > > To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:28 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Cooling
> > >
> > >
> > > > I think I might want to put a radiator inside a tank of water and do
> the
> > > > heat exchange that way.. Might even work on a camero too.. LOL Oh your
> > > > jets.. you need to make the idle jets on the metering block about .002
> > > > larger all 4 of them. 2 on each metering block. and have to make the
> > > > high speed air bleeds .002 smaller to get the mains pulling
> harder..all
> > > > 4 of those. They are on top next to the bowl vents. The closest ones
> to
> > > > the vent tube. The idle jets  should be .037 now !! need to be .039 or
> > > > .040.. I don't know what size the air bleed are to be honest.. if you
> do
> > > > this right will have to turn in the idle screws about a turn or so to
> > > > get best idle speed.I generally turn them in till I get the best
> > > > cleanest idle with no rpm drop then back them out about 1/8 turn or
> less
> > > > for a race car it it were emission street type car will do the
> opposite
> > > > and turn them in from cleanest idle about 1/8 turn if there are any
> > > > problems with unburned HC..but do we really care about that??
> > > >
> > > > Keith Turk wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > His is a Home made aluminum tank.... I was thinking if I ever did
> that
> > I
> > > > > would add structure to the inside that would prevent it... the
> > Radiator
> > > in
> > > > > the Camaro has bolts through the large tank area to keep it together
> > in
> > > the
> > > > > event of an over temp... hence it only Poofed.... K
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
> > > > > To: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> > > > > Cc: <ardunbill@webtv.net>; <speed@autoxland-.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:12 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Cooling
> > > > >
> > > > > > might want to get one that is tested by someone that makes one
> could
> > > get
> > > > > > real ugly if a compressed air tank blows up at 22 psi..I sure
> would
> > > not
> > > > > > want to be sitting next to it..
> > > > > > Dahlgren
> > > > > >
> > > > > > John Beckett wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have a pressurized and vented tank system in my car right now,
> > but
> > > > > only to
> > > > > > > 7 lbs. It works OK, but I think there  is room for improvement.
> > May
> > > step
> > > > > up
> > > > > > > to 15lbs and see if the tank will accept that pressure level
> > before
> > > > > jumping
> > > > > > > to 22lbs.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > > From: <ardunbill@webtv.net>
> > > > > > > To: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>;
> <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > > > > Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 10:24 AM
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: Cooling
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Sure, no question that a pressure system is a better basic
> > > principle
> > > > > > > > both from better ability to take the heat out of the metal,
> and
> > a
> > > > > higher
> > > > > > > > boiling point in an overheating situation.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > A pressure system makes the cooling tank setup somewhat more
> > > > > > > > complicated, have to use a tank that can stand the pressure.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Good point that adequate venting is important for a vented
> tank,
> > > Elmo
> > > > > > > > Gillette pointed out to me that if boiling does occur, with a
> > > small
> > > > > > > > vent, the pressure can't get out fast enough and the tank will
> > get
> > > > > > > > distorted.  I suppose if the pressure buildup was too severe
> it
> > > could
> > > > > > > > rupture the tank.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I have my tank in the trunk with a bulkhead between it and the
> > > > > driver's
> > > > > > > > compartment, so even if it did  rupture, the water would be on
> > the
> > > > > floor
> > > > > > > > and unlikely to reach the driver in his seat in the cage.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Back to Bonneville practice, I understand there are a few
> > pressure
> > > > > tank
> > > > > > > > systems in use, and a lot of vented ones.  Could someone who
> > > actually
> > > > > > > > knows, comment?  Cheers,  ArdunBill
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >



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