ArdunBill,
One way to accomplish the mag kill problem is to use a normally closed
relay wired to ground. Battery voltage keeps it open and when power is
turned off it will ground the mag.
Tom, REdding CA - #216 D/GCC
ardunbill@webtv.net wrote:
>
> Hi Folks, work has started on ArdunBill's HiBoy in light of what was
> learned Sept. 30.
>
> Called Flaming River for one of their FR 1010 Mag/Battery Kill Switches
> since I am using the Vertex. ECTA calls for one of these for next year.
> I'll mount it on a bracket on the frame under the rear of the body ahead
> of the pushbar. They "ain't cheap" but I hope the quality is
> commensurate with the price. We always hope that. I don't know of any
> other piece that kills the mag and also cuts the current in the positive
> battery cable, with one compact switch. I thought about making a
> bracket with a std. big switch plus a toggle for the mag, but the regs
> are quite specific, so rather than have a squawk at tech inspection,
> which burns-out the organizers, "good soldiers" and
> "right-thinking-types" as the Limeys say, will just get the Flaming
> River item and stick it on there!
>
> Have the parts to build a 290 Ardun in the shop, to replace the 239
> "training-wheels" unit I ran on Sept. 30. XXF-GR runs clear up to 325
> inches, but it would be some job to approach that. If anybody knows
> how, tell us.
>
> Got an order in to Currie for a 2.75 3rd Member for the 9" Ford. The
> 3.00 I was using Sept. 30 ran the engine 100 over the red-line in top
> gear on the last run. Currie is also to supply a 2.50 R&P just in case
> I ever get to that level. They can do a spool, new bearings and
> good-used Ford gears for a price that seems reasonable. "Brian" at
> Currie's went to a lot of trouble to be sure I got a yoke, etc. that
> will make a direct replacement unit for the one I have now. I didn't
> know it, but there are some variations within the general heading of "9"
> Ford".
>
> Called Tex Racing in NC for one of their NASCAR shifters for my
> Borg-Warner four-speed. I believe these folks know what they are doing,
> yet their version costs a lot less than what Jeg's quoted for the Hurst
> equivalent. I have a M. Mouse shifter in there now. Tex uses the Hurst
> "mixer", and the rest is their stuff. The shift lever is Hurst, from a
> selection of many options, so I picked a unit that will better clear my
> leg than the present one. You quickly learn that you want the most
> comfortable and practical controls and arrangements in the cockpit, so
> you can concentrate on the more important matters, with a minimum of
> distractions.
>
> Sept. 30 showed a definite need for a better clutch throw-out system
> than the marginal mechanical setup I have now. Looks like Tilton has
> what I need for a good hydraulic conversion. Obviously, the clutch
> pedal pusher and the selection of Tilton parts has to be worked out with
> care for the right results. I'll probably put at least a couple
> alternate holes for the Heim joint in the pusher, to get the best
> combination of low effort and enough movement in the throw-out bearing
> to get a good separation at the clutch disc. The clutch is a 3200 lb
> Ram 10.5" Borg and Beck.
>
> Stopped at NAPA yesterday and got a case of 75W-90 Valvoline gear oil
> (not synthetic, which costs more than double). Planning to use this
> both in the gearbox and the rear axle. I believe this is advantageous
> for a standing mile sprint, since we don't have any real way to get the
> gear oil hot. From using it before in my Miata I know this oil gives a
> good feel to the gearbox even when cold. I have to believe this oil is
> more than adequate for the 9" Ford too, this isn't an Endurance race on
> a Super Speedway with 700 horsepower, just a one-mile dragrace.
>
> For what it's worth might mention I've been using 5W-30 Havoline regular
> oil form "K-Mark", and the engine seems to like it. 60 psi oil pressure
> all the time with a Mellings std. flathead oil pump. My thinking is
> that this oil will flow and circulate even if I don't have a chance to
> get it hot before running, yet when hot it will still have enough
> viscosity to give good lubrication to the metal parts. Nothing failed
> or broke Sept. 30, guess I'll have to try harder. Leakdown and mag
> timing the same as before the Meet. No water in the oil.
>
> After some thought I guess it's time to trim off the front and rear
> frame horns on the '32 (Flatlander's repro, don't worry, not an
> original) Ford frame. They stick out too much in the back if you don't
> use the original gas tank, and I really like this 2 gallon tank we made,
> that fits inside the front grill shell. Worked just like I hoped it
> would. On the front, a '32 roadster looks, I think, just a little more
> business-like and racy with the horns deleted, since they don't do
> anything at all now, just something to scrape your shins on. The rear
> will just be trimmed back so that the pushbar is a better fit, about 6
> inches.
>
> Guess that's about all the philosophy and news up to the moment from the
> Great Dismal Swamp, Chesapeake, VA, Cheers from ArdunBill.
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