Dave helped us install a relay at Bonneville for our nitrous system. Now the
system works as it should. Including the timing retard. Amazing what one $20
part can do to make the nitrous systems function together.
John (gonna try Dave's 200 hp recommendation, albeit a month and a half
late) Beckett
----- Original Message -----
From: "dahlgren" <dahlgren@uconect.net>
To: "Thomas E. Bryant" <saltracer@awwwsome.com>
Cc: <ardunbill@webtv.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>; <LITNMAN@aol.com>;
<gillette@aiinc.com>; <bjgayle@aol.com>; "marco" <bk185@lafn.org>;
<bigsid@webtv.net>; <clemtebow@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: Winter Upgrades
> The nice part about the relay is that only cost around 20 bucks retail
> ...from radio shack and others...They are sold as automotive type relays
> and have about a 30 amp rating..most are 5 pin and have both a normally
> open and normally closed set of contacts so you can use the same relay
> for different jobs in the car and not have a bunch of differenr spares..
> same one can work for fuel pump,nitrous and mag kill switch and if you
> have a good spare can go in any location..
> Dave
>
> "Thomas E. Bryant" wrote:
> >
> > ArdunBill,
> >
> > One way to accomplish the mag kill problem is to use a normally closed
> > relay wired to ground. Battery voltage keeps it open and when power is
> > turned off it will ground the mag.
> >
> > Tom, REdding CA - #216 D/GCC
> >
> > ardunbill@webtv.net wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Folks, work has started on ArdunBill's HiBoy in light of what was
> > > learned Sept. 30.
> > >
> > > Called Flaming River for one of their FR 1010 Mag/Battery Kill
Switches
> > > since I am using the Vertex. ECTA calls for one of these for next
year.
> > > I'll mount it on a bracket on the frame under the rear of the body
ahead
> > > of the pushbar. They "ain't cheap" but I hope the quality is
> > > commensurate with the price. We always hope that. I don't know of
any
> > > other piece that kills the mag and also cuts the current in the
positive
> > > battery cable, with one compact switch. I thought about making a
> > > bracket with a std. big switch plus a toggle for the mag, but the regs
> > > are quite specific, so rather than have a squawk at tech inspection,
> > > which burns-out the organizers, "good soldiers" and
> > > "right-thinking-types" as the Limeys say, will just get the Flaming
> > > River item and stick it on there!
> > >
> > > Have the parts to build a 290 Ardun in the shop, to replace the 239
> > > "training-wheels" unit I ran on Sept. 30. XXF-GR runs clear up to 325
> > > inches, but it would be some job to approach that. If anybody knows
> > > how, tell us.
> > >
> > > Got an order in to Currie for a 2.75 3rd Member for the 9" Ford. The
> > > 3.00 I was using Sept. 30 ran the engine 100 over the red-line in top
> > > gear on the last run. Currie is also to supply a 2.50 R&P just in
case
> > > I ever get to that level. They can do a spool, new bearings and
> > > good-used Ford gears for a price that seems reasonable. "Brian" at
> > > Currie's went to a lot of trouble to be sure I got a yoke, etc. that
> > > will make a direct replacement unit for the one I have now. I didn't
> > > know it, but there are some variations within the general heading of
"9"
> > > Ford".
> > >
> > > Called Tex Racing in NC for one of their NASCAR shifters for my
> > > Borg-Warner four-speed. I believe these folks know what they are
doing,
> > > yet their version costs a lot less than what Jeg's quoted for the
Hurst
> > > equivalent. I have a M. Mouse shifter in there now. Tex uses the
Hurst
> > > "mixer", and the rest is their stuff. The shift lever is Hurst, from
a
> > > selection of many options, so I picked a unit that will better clear
my
> > > leg than the present one. You quickly learn that you want the most
> > > comfortable and practical controls and arrangements in the cockpit, so
> > > you can concentrate on the more important matters, with a minimum of
> > > distractions.
> > >
> > > Sept. 30 showed a definite need for a better clutch throw-out system
> > > than the marginal mechanical setup I have now. Looks like Tilton has
> > > what I need for a good hydraulic conversion. Obviously, the clutch
> > > pedal pusher and the selection of Tilton parts has to be worked out
with
> > > care for the right results. I'll probably put at least a couple
> > > alternate holes for the Heim joint in the pusher, to get the best
> > > combination of low effort and enough movement in the throw-out bearing
> > > to get a good separation at the clutch disc. The clutch is a 3200 lb
> > > Ram 10.5" Borg and Beck.
> > >
> > > Stopped at NAPA yesterday and got a case of 75W-90 Valvoline gear oil
> > > (not synthetic, which costs more than double). Planning to use this
> > > both in the gearbox and the rear axle. I believe this is advantageous
> > > for a standing mile sprint, since we don't have any real way to get
the
> > > gear oil hot. From using it before in my Miata I know this oil gives
a
> > > good feel to the gearbox even when cold. I have to believe this oil
is
> > > more than adequate for the 9" Ford too, this isn't an Endurance race
on
> > > a Super Speedway with 700 horsepower, just a one-mile dragrace.
> > >
> > > For what it's worth might mention I've been using 5W-30 Havoline
regular
> > > oil form "K-Mark", and the engine seems to like it. 60 psi oil
pressure
> > > all the time with a Mellings std. flathead oil pump. My thinking is
> > > that this oil will flow and circulate even if I don't have a chance to
> > > get it hot before running, yet when hot it will still have enough
> > > viscosity to give good lubrication to the metal parts. Nothing failed
> > > or broke Sept. 30, guess I'll have to try harder. Leakdown and mag
> > > timing the same as before the Meet. No water in the oil.
> > >
> > > After some thought I guess it's time to trim off the front and rear
> > > frame horns on the '32 (Flatlander's repro, don't worry, not an
> > > original) Ford frame. They stick out too much in the back if you
don't
> > > use the original gas tank, and I really like this 2 gallon tank we
made,
> > > that fits inside the front grill shell. Worked just like I hoped it
> > > would. On the front, a '32 roadster looks, I think, just a little
more
> > > business-like and racy with the horns deleted, since they don't do
> > > anything at all now, just something to scrape your shins on. The rear
> > > will just be trimmed back so that the pushbar is a better fit, about 6
> > > inches.
> > >
> > > Guess that's about all the philosophy and news up to the moment from
the
> > > Great Dismal Swamp, Chesapeake, VA, Cheers from ArdunBill.
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