Dick I kinda got us started down this here Welding Road... and I agree with
Bruce ... but what he didn't tell you was what was Cost effective... he
just told you what is best..
The set up you have... Smoke wrench/gas rig.... and Stick welder will work
fine to stick things together that you want to stay together... ( it ain't
going to be Pretty...especially if I stick it ) but it will be there...
Just adding the thought that what you have will get the job done with
Practice.... ( they didn't make enough welding rod for me to Practice )
Mayf asked Alston what was best when he bought the Chassis to the
Sunbeam... and they told him Tig... so he went and bought one then taught
himself to weld with it.... His work was really nice by the way... Lots of
heat penetration and quality welds...( something about working his way
though school as a welder )
my point is like many others... it's all easy once you have done it a
million times.... ( still hovering around 1000 times )
Keith ( Mayf is doing fine by the way..just in the throw's of moving still)
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> From: FastmetalBDF@aol.com
> To: lsr_man@yahoo.com; Nt788@aol.com; LGMCAFEE@aol.com;
land-speed@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Welding 101
> Date: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:10 PM
>
> Dick, If you intend to work on lsr cars / street rods / homebuilt
> motorcycles
> and the like for a number of years yet, the best way to go is to get
yourself
> a TIG welding ( also referred to as HELIARC ) outfit .... this is how the
PROS
> do it, and to me it is the ULTIMATE way to fasten metal together :
aluminum
> (or as it is known in the UK : ALUMINIUM ),stainless steel, regular
carbon
> steel, titanium, magnesium, copper, and cast iron . You said that you can
> gas weld ..... TIG is much the same, torch in one hand, filler rod in the
> other,
> only the heat for the arc is supplied by electricity, and the inert gas
is
> for the
> purpose of shielding the weld zone only, whether argon, helium, or carbon
> dioxide ...... or mixes like 75 % helium / 25 % argon, etc. ...... it all
> depends on WHAT you are welding on .
> My take is ..... IF you can afford to do some serious racing, and
IF
> you will be building the car(s) yourself, and IF you can visualize
yourself
> being ABLE to do this for at least a few more years ..... then you should
> do yourself a BIG FAVOR and get TIG welding for your shop .
> IF you were a racer who is mainly an engine builder type, and does
> just a little welding on the car, or NONE, and farms all of that out to
> friends
> or pro shops, then this advice might not apply to you ..... everybody has
> to figure out what they really need versus the cost, and how often will
they
> need to use that equipment, and will the equipment they already have
> get the job done ..... to their satisfaction .
> Much of the great technology in hot rodding and race car building
> came to us from the aircraft industry, which is one of industry' s main
> cutting edges in metalworking, and I believe the TIG process was
developed
> by North American Aircraft in the early 40s ...... but I might be
incorrect
> on that . Check out the welding you see on any modern airplanes .....
> I do every time I' m getting on an airliner .... some nice looking welds
> there, and rivet work, too !
> Several thoughts there ......
> YA PAYS YER MONEY & MAKES YER CHERCE
> Bruce
> BTW : When I started gas welding (1954) the word " torch " meant the
> CUTTING torch ..... when we actually welded metal together with the
> smaller tips screwed onto the same handle, this was technically referred
to
> as an oxy - acetylene blowpipe .....at least according to the
manufacturer .
> In those days every garage and body shop had oxy - acetylene welding
> ..... but they did NOT all have arc welding .....
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