Hi Chuck, very interesting case history. What did the customer do that
resulted in .080 wear on the crank thrust face? I think most people sit
at lights with the clutch pedal pushed in, so they can jump as soon as
it changes. And yet wear on the thrust face is not often mentioned.
Since I put the Tilton internal hydraulic throwout system into #124 this
year, and it worked correctly at Maxton on June 30, it's encouraging to
hear GM's version apparently worked trouble-free for a tremendous
mileage in this case. Hope Tilton's is as good.
Interesting that apparently shoving the whole crank/rods/pistons/etc
assembly forward and running it .080 ahead of the original position, for
a long mileage, didn't upset anything. Until the counterweights started
clunking on the main caps or whatever.
With my 3200 lb clutch, holding the pedal in a long time at the starting
line last Sept at Maxton, because my linkage was faulty and the clutch
dragged badly, the original .003 play increased to about .015 because of
wear on the thrust faces (rear main bearing and/or crank, I didn't check
which). Of course the whole 3200 lbs spring pressure inside the clutch
doesn't push on the thrust bearing, only a fraction of that due to the
design of the fingers, what, maybe 1/4, but if 800 lbs, still a lot of
force. So one doesn't want to hold the clutch pedal in a second longer
than necessary. Fortunately, my new hydraulic throwout works (so far)
like a charm and there is no clutch drag whatsoever. I can conveniently
select first gear and go whenever the Starter says.
Your final point reminds us that when we hear a thud-thud-thud noise in
our engines, check for helicopters first before getting upset. Cheers
Ardun Bill
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