There was an article in one of the Chevy magazines about this same problem.
Seems
the 2-3 shift would hang do to a lack of fluid; so the clutch was not
disengaging
quickly. The fitting in question is non standard item so drilling it out is the
only cure.
RichK
Bill & Dee Bennett wrote:
> I forgot to remove the trailer the first time. Also meant to add that master
> cylinder holds less than the capacity of the whole system and if the pedal
> is pumped quickly a few times the reservoir will go dry and the system takes
> for ever for the clutch to engage.
> Here is a little tip on those late model slave cylinders. There is a small
> orifice installed in the hydraulic line that slows clutch engagement. I
> guess they didn't want anyone dumping the clutch. Several people I know
> have
> try to do a clutch upgrade only to have it wasted in a few hundred miles.
> Once the orifice was found and drilled out the clutch life was greatly
> improved.
>
> Bill
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ardunbill@webtv.net>
> > To: "Chuck Rothfuss" <crothfuss@coastalnet.com>;
> <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 10:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: odd Chevy crank wear
> >
> >
> > > Hi Chuck, very interesting case history. What did the customer do that
> > > resulted in .080 wear on the crank thrust face? I think most people sit
> > > at lights with the clutch pedal pushed in, so they can jump as soon as
> > > it changes. And yet wear on the thrust face is not often mentioned.
> > >
> > > Since I put the Tilton internal hydraulic throwout system into #124 this
> > > year, and it worked correctly at Maxton on June 30, it's encouraging to
> > > hear GM's version apparently worked trouble-free for a tremendous
> > > mileage in this case. Hope Tilton's is as good.
> > >
> > > Interesting that apparently shoving the whole crank/rods/pistons/etc
> > > assembly forward and running it .080 ahead of the original position, for
> > > a long mileage, didn't upset anything. Until the counterweights started
> > > clunking on the main caps or whatever.
> > >
> > > With my 3200 lb clutch, holding the pedal in a long time at the starting
> > > line last Sept at Maxton, because my linkage was faulty and the clutch
> > > dragged badly, the original .003 play increased to about .015 because of
> > > wear on the thrust faces (rear main bearing and/or crank, I didn't check
> > > which). Of course the whole 3200 lbs spring pressure inside the clutch
> > > doesn't push on the thrust bearing, only a fraction of that due to the
> > > design of the fingers, what, maybe 1/4, but if 800 lbs, still a lot of
> > > force. So one doesn't want to hold the clutch pedal in a second longer
> > > than necessary. Fortunately, my new hydraulic throwout works (so far)
> > > like a charm and there is no clutch drag whatsoever. I can conveniently
> > > select first gear and go whenever the Starter says.
> > >
> > > Your final point reminds us that when we hear a thud-thud-thud noise in
> > > our engines, check for helicopters first before getting upset. Cheers
> > > Ardun Bill
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