Ah but Bob, WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!
The original TC/TD thermostat had an outer sleeve that also moved to
block the bypass hose when the thermostat valve opened. The bypass hose
is that smaller diameter hose that runs down at an angle to the steel 3
way connector for the lower hoses. The bypass' function was for the
water flow when the system was cool to be directed to the thermostat
bellows (and not through the radiator) to help the thermostat to open as
early as possible when things warmed up.
With the suggested modification, you lose the blocking function and you
have a constant opening (of about .75 square inches) allowing water to
bypass the radiator AT ALL TIMES. Not a good thing, sort of like having
a pencil sized connection between your veins and arteries just
downstream of your heart - your legs wouldn't like the circulation
problems a bit! You're saving some money at the risk of overheating, and
if you block the bypass, your "new" thermostat will be sloooow to open.
Better to do it right the first time! Jarl de Boer
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ROBERT G. HOWARD wrote:
>
> Hi Pat,
> Moss may be giving him the correct info. The TD setup is unusual.
> Dave Raymond, NEMGTR #96, wrote this, which was printed in the April,
> 1990 issue of TSO:
> "Most TCs and TDs are running around with the original thermostat,
> either because of a lack of knowledge or the almost prohibitive cost of a
> new one. One very effective solution to the problem that I have used is
> as follows:
> "Remove the thermostat housing, using a screwdriver, pry off the valve
> that is at the top of the housing, and remove the remains of the old
> thermostat. Break out the flat piece of metal with a hole in it hat the
> stem of the old thermostat passed through. Clean up any burrs that
> remain. Purchase a 160 or a 180 degree thermostat depending on season.
> One that I use is for older Fords. The thermostat fits into the top of
> the housing perfectly. Drill two 9/64" holes through the edge of the
> thermostat and the flange of the housing using two 1/8 x 1/4 brass
> rivets inserted up from the bottom, back up with punch held in a vise
> and peen over the end. Result: a neat installation that can be changed
> over to a summer thermostat with very little difficulty, saving some
> money and ensuring that with all other factors being equal, you'll have
> an abundance of heat. A thermostat, properly working, is a very important
> part of the machine-it insures faster warmup and maintains a constant
> temperature in the engine.
> Dave is a highly-regarded MG MD, and this tip sounds as though it's
> just what your friend is looking for.
> Bob
>
> On Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:28:40 -0700 "ppp:pbailey" <pbailey@qnet.com>
> writes:
> >Thanks all for the Td info I passed it along to Bob,but now he has
> >another problem(Yes.. I'm trying to get him to get a computer!!}It
> >seems
> >he has no thermostat and he ordered one from Moss but it doesn't fit
> >He
> >has some kind of housing with a siphon hose on it and Moss is telling
> >him he has to buy the whole works for $85.Any help will make him happy
> >We don't want him to get disgusted and sell it .
> >Pat
> >
> >
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