I have the newer version of the McLeod (Webber is the same) HTOB. Actually, I
have had 2, one on my roadster with a T-50 tranny, & one on my GT with a T-5
trans. Both work(ed) flawlessly, the 1st needing a rebuild after only 100,000
miles. Took 10 min using the extra seals ( O-rings) shipped with the unit. Of
course, it took 2 hours to R & R the trans. Very easy to set up using the
threaded adjustable collar. The newer McLeod just slips over the input shaft
sleeve, inlet & bleed lines go through the side hole in the bell housing
originally for the clutch arm. A simple metal finger is bolted to the bell
housing or tranny front cover to prevent the bearing from rotating. As a
practical matter, it is not needed, as the hydraulic lines do the same thing, &
are more than strong enough as they are braided stainless.
There is really no alternative to the HTOB, unless you enjoy tunnel bashing,
needless engineering, wasted time, & a stiff clutch with pivots that wear
quickly. If you enjoy this form of masochism, let me know, I still have a 948
sprite clutch slave, modified TR6 bracket, shortened GM clutch arm, from 12
years ago, pre- McLeod.
As an interesting aside, when I bought my first HTOB, about 10 years ago, pre-
internet, there was no info available, so I called McLeod for help. I was
transferred to "Red" who had all the answers. He faxed me a hand written
application sheet, with all the clearances, part no's, etc. Hand ruled on blank
paper, not even a letter head. Talked to him again to finalize the order, he was
a real nice guy, very helpful, seemed to know everything about the Webber/
McLerod line, including clutch applications. He was very interested in the
215/MG swap, asked a lot of questions.
4 years later, I learned that "Red" was Red Roberts, President of McLeod
industries. Just another "hot rodder".
Jim Stuart
with about 320,000 miles on McLeod HTOB's
Timothy Duhamel wrote:
> I'm using an early Weber/McLeod type - the kind that replaces the input
> shaft cover - with good success. I've got it on a T-5 and the action is
> nice. It is being used with the stock B master. Putting this in was really
> nice since there are no clearance issues between the trans and the tunnel.
> You have to have the throwout bearing free space - between the bearing and
> the pressure plate - just right (<0.100"). On this particular model, this is
> accomplished by obtaining the correct length piston.
>
> Because it took me a few tries to get it just right, I know that all of the
> parts are available to reseal and rebuild these units.
>
> I understand the newer style can be adjusted to take up the bearing
> clearance. But that's all I know about it.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim Duhamel
> running a Sebringed '79 Beast with a Buick
> tduhamel@prototechco.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 2:45 PM
> To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
> Subject: Hydraulic Throw-out Bearings
>
> I am about to plunge into the dark world of hydraulic throw-out bearings.
> Has anyone had experience of these devices which sound rather good. Good
> or bad stories with brand recommendations would really be appreciated.
>
> BY THE WAY
>
> Rover engines.
>
> A while ago I reported discovery of a batch of completely rebuilt Rover
> motors at a ridiculously low price (I now have mine) I am now told that
> they have gone very quickly and there are only 40 left - which is about the
> monthly take-off!
> Regards
> Barrie Robinson
>
> robinson@baradv.on.ca
>
> COBALT TECHNOLOGIES INC
> Email faxlan@cobalt.com
> Web Page http://web.onramp.ca/cobalt
> Tel 705-726-7993
> Fax 705-726-7994
> FAX 705-726-7994
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