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Re: rear end swap

To: "MGB BBS" <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: rear end swap
From: "Bruce" <brucemills@dccnet.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 08:50:36 -0700
References: <3F8AA162.C225DF19@visi.net> <01b801c39191$54a39d00$b965fea9@one>
Reply-to: "Bruce" <brucemills@dccnet.com>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Paul
Do I understand the following correctly? If I were to source and install GT
backing plates and rear wheel cylinders on my MGB V8 conversion I would
enhance the braking?

"GT backplates are different to roadster backplates - the wheel cylinder
locating peg is in a different
>place as the wheel cylinders are different, the GT item has a larger bore
as it can exert more >braking effort without locking up because of the
greater weight.

Bruce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Telewest (PH)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <packrat3@visi.net>; <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: rear end swap


> I've done this from a steel wheel to a wire wheel.  Very straight
forward -
> make sure the body is *securely* supported just in front of the rear
spring
> front mounts.  Jack up under the springs to compress them and remove the
> U-bolts, then pull the damper plates down and push them forward out of the
> way.  Lower the jack, which will leave the axle hanging on the rebound
> straps, so you might like to support the axle on another jack or stands in
> case they break, it is *very* heavy.  You may need lots of penetrating
> fluid, heat, careful wiggling back and fore to undo the nuts that hold the
> rebound straps to the axle, it is not uncommon for the pins to shear.  If
> they do, and you have enough length left, then cross-drill the remains of
> the pin and use a large washer and split-pin to hold the rebound strap,
> otherwise drill and tap lengthwise and use a large washer and a bolt.  Or
if
> it looks like it isn't going to come off without shearing the pin
cut/grind
> the nut and use a new one.   With the springs fully lowered disconnect the
> rear shackles and leave the springs hanging down on their front mounts.  I
> was swapping the back-plates as well and removed these first and fitted
them
> last, so I could slide the axle sideways over the exhaust to remove and
> replace it.  Be very careful not to bump the flange of the axle on hard
> ground or you can destroy the pre-load of the pinion bearing, I used loads
> of padding on the ground in case it slipped off the jack, but it didn't.
> The steel wheel axle case is longer than the wire wheel so you will need
to
> replace the handbrake cable as well.  GT backplates are different to
> roadster backplates - the wheel cylinder locating peg is in a different
> place as the wheel cylinders are different, the GT item has a larger bore
as
> it can exert more braking effort without locking up because of the greater
> weight.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <packrat3@visi.net>
> To: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 1:58 PM
> Subject: rear end swap
>
>
> > anyone on the list have first hand knowledge on switching rear axles.
> >
> > i want to switch the wire wheel axle from a 73 gt(eventually the v-8
> > recipient) with the hard wheel axle from a 79 roadster(my current
> > driver)..  is this doable and whats involved?
>


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