mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Battery Isolator Switch

To: antiques@whidbey.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Battery Isolator Switch
From: TATERRY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 1995 00:27:09 -0400
In a message dated 95-10-28 13:05:48 EDT, you write:

>Has anyone tried running a ground cable from the battery, directly to 
>the engine (one of the starter bolts looks quite convenient)? I've 
>read this does wonders for improving the starter's ability to spin 
>the engine over. If so, just how long is the cable and what size did 
>you use?
>
>Jerry Causey
>
>

Jerry has hit on the secret to solve most of the famous Lucas problems....I
have used this connection for years and never have I electrical
problems.....You run the battery ground wire directly to the engine.  Never
to the chassis.  Then jumper over from the engine to chassis.  Use welding
cable with copper about as big as your little finger.  I use Traction motor
cable off a BART car.  Since my batteries are in the rear of the car (like
many of yours)  I also run the same size wire forward for the hot side.

After my accident, as I lay waiting there trapped in the car for the
paramedics to arrive, I could smell gas and it occured to me that one needed
a battery cutoff switch located so that it can be reached from the driver
seat.  Easily reached even if you are mostly incapacitated.  So now I have
one just in from of the seat sticking up through the floor boards.....the hot
lead coming forward from the battery goes through it....insulation not a
problem with T type plywood floors.

Most Lucas problems are the result of poor grounds.  The above reduces most
of those plus I never rely on those bullet type connectors....every thing is
soldered and star washers put under any connection that uses the chassis for
a ground connection.

Terry (12v delivered and no v drops) Sanders

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>