On Wed, 10 Apr 1996 SimJaysun@aol.com wrote:
> 2) Suddenly, there is NO power from the engine, no response when the
> throttle is depressed, and the tach has dropped to zero. I can't even really
> hear the engine running at all, so I go to step 3...
Electric tach, right? Ignition problem. Or the tach could be shorting
to ground. You could try running with the tach disconnected.
> 3) Assuming the engine has stalled entirely, because there is no response
> from the throttle, I can't hear anything, and the tach is at zero, I take the
> car out of gear, depress the clutch, and turn the key. The starter grinds,
> as if the engine was running. Looking to my dashboard in astonishment, I see
> the "ignition" light is not on, also signifying that the engine is, in fact
> running.
The engine is not running, but is still turning, because until you pushed
in the clutch pedal, the drive train was turning it. Push in the clutch
and the engine doesn't stop immediately. Griiiiiind!
> 4) I give up, and start to steer the car to the curb with the tranny in
> neutral. Looking at the dash, I see that the "ignition" light is now lit.
Right. The engine has now come to a stop.
> (???) Okay...so I try to start the car now. It turns over, but doesn't
> fire. Try again...same reaction. I'm thinking that the car is flooded, so I
> wait a couple minutes. Turn it over...still doesn't fire. Try again...AH
> HA! A sputter AFTER I quit turning the starter. Try again...it fires.
Waiting also lets things cool and move. I once had a problem with a
Toyota starter where the _internal_ connection from solenoid to starter
was not solid. Go somewhere, it's hot, won't start, cool down, starts.
Took a while to figure out.
> By the way, I checked the general wire connections, and distributor contact
> points. Everything is tight, and clean as a whistle, but I still have the
> same problem.
I don't remember what kind of car and ignition you have. If electronic
ignition, it could be that module. I'd try disconnection nonessential
items like an electric tach and see if that had any effect. Perhaps hook
up an engine analyzer type tach and see if it behaves the same, "it"
being the car or the other tach.
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