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Re: headlights...

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: headlights...
From: Barry Berg <barry.berg@nwa.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:28:02 -0700
REICHLE, CHRISTOPHER wrote:
> 
> One of my stock headlights on my 80 B just burnt out and I would like to
> replace them both ... [clip] ... replace them with halogen
> or soemthing beter. If so, what, $, and where can I get them.

This may sound more complex than it really is.  In fact the
following is really quite easy.   The answer is replace them with 
something better!

Hella makes replacement headlights sold in the US.  The 7 inch rounds
fit the B perfectly.  (Note they are not legal for use on autos 
in the US, however, this has been ignored for the past 20 years I have
been using them.)  They use an H4 Quartz Halogen bulb, and come with
a 55/65 Watt bulbs.  Many other sizes are available, but if you 
choose to use them, you should add an auxiliary wiring harnas. The 
beams offer an E-code lighting pattern, which makes more effective
use of the light, and keeps the light directed away from other driver's
eyes.  This means that your low beams can also provide fog light 
capabilities.  The High Beam is also a better pattern, and while not
as effective as a driving light, do rather well.  I use a 90/130 watt
PIAA Crystal Iode Light (Low beams are yellow/High beams are white)
bulbs and a PIAA High current harnas on my 1978 B.  I like this
set up, as it means I don't need any auxillary lights to spoil the
lines of the B.  Costs can very but the Hella's run locally in
Minnesota about $60 a pair, H4 bulbs can run anywhere from $4 each
to $30 each for the crystal iodes I run.  A harnas can run from
about $30 - $60 depending on the wattage range you use. 

I would recommend the use of a harnas regardless of the wattage
you run.  Lucas never seemed to run a big enough gauge wire to 
the lamps, and the load on the switches tend to shorten their
life expectancy.  Use of a harnas reduces the current load on 
the lucas components. 

Another little change I made, is the use of a terminal post.  From
the point on the starter motor where the main Positive lead from the
battery attaches, I have run a piece of #4 welding cable (abt 4
feet -- purchased from a welding supply shop for about $5 bucks. 
for about $5 more he attached a pair of copper ring ends on.) to
a terminal post I have mounted in the engine compartment.  This
may be obtained from any Audi Parts counter for about $6.  It is
used to provide a place to jump start an Audi 5000 whose battery is
located under the rear seat.  [Works well for a B whose battery 
IS the back seat! :-) ]  Not only does it provide a convienient
place to hook the charger without ripping up the rear ledge over
the winter, but it makes a great place to get electrical power under
the hood to hook up such things as auxiliary harnasses.  You will
need to add a metric bolt , a couple of washers, and one or two
nuts  -- but it is a nice addition to the B's engine compartment.

There is a lot more about lighting and lighting systems, and I am
sorry I don't have the time and space to go farther.  I usually offer
abt a two hour tech session to the local club each year on this
subject.  I am sure you have someone who does the same in your
area, if not drop me a line.

TTFN,
==barry

-- 
When your car is in the air, the accelerator doesn't work!
The brakes don't work!  The steering doesn't work!...Nothing works!!!
To which Bob Benson Replied: "Gravity Does. :-)"
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
HAVE NOMEX WILL TRAVEL                  wire:  barry.berg@nwa.com

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