Hi Bruce Durgin!!
On Sat, 10 May 1997 BDurgin1@aol.com wrote:
> more. I thought that a thread on the list sometime ago said that the car
> will "settle" out eventually. I had 2 people on the list who said that
A new set of springs will "settle", and take a set that will stay the
same for a long time, until they eventually fatigue and then "sag".
Your problem is that the GT is HEAVIER then the "B", so the "GT" springs
have a higher spring rate, and will take a lot longer to fatigue with
the lighter load imposed by the "B"... unless you load down the "B".
I brought home a bunch of dead forklift batteries from work (a mix of
24, and 27 series sizes), so that my son could take them in to the
recyclers (work has to pay to have them taken away). He managed to jam
13 of them into the "B"'s trunk, but didn't take them in right away.
A week later, those springs were bagged. Mind you, they were pretty
tired to begin with, being oem '73 vintage. I had to make up a new set
of shackles for him to get the ride height correct again.
> their car never settled out. If that is the case, should I reverse one of
> the leafs and, if so, which one ? I like the rear riding a little
Rather than reversing a leaf, why not just remove one or two of them?
Start with the smallest leaf, and work upwards.
NOTE that the spring pack also has to control/prevent "windup". If you
destroy this control, you'll suffer wheel "tramp" when you start out
with a lot of power applied. Bucking, shaking, and pounding back there
knocks the dirt out of the fenders, but that's about the only good thing
it does. I'm told that many perceived clutch problems are really a
spring problem. No matter what you decide to do, don't remove those
spring "wraps" that are mounted at the ends of some of the leaves. They
control the wind up from braking and acceleration.
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen
|