Hi Scott Gardener!!
On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, Scott Gardner wrote:
> > together. I strongly reccomend using solder.
> > Dan Masters,
Soldered spade connections are subject to vibration failure because the
solder wicks past the end of the spade connecter into the wire. The
area where the solder ends is a stress point, and vibration will cause
the wire strands to work harden and fracture inside the insulation where
you can't see it. But that point WILL get hot before it eventually breaks.
> After all, the harness plugs and spades in all cars are simple
> metal-to-metal friction fits with no solder, and they seem to do well
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yup, it's the cheapest, most reliable method of car wiring. No warantee
claims... but it's a COMPRESSION join, not a friction fit. A properly
manufactured spade joint is deceptively simple looking, but elegantly
designed. It's a good example of superb engineering.
> heating may be negligible, or it may be because they use solid wiring
> and can't solder it, but either way, whatever governing body handles
Of course you can solder solid wire!!
> house wiring has obviously deemed it satisfactory.
Unless you've been blessed with ALUMINUM house wiring...
> discussing resistance, not structural strength. Soldering beats
> pigtailing in that respect, hands down.
Actually, in the real world, it doesn't. It's entirely possible to have
a cold solder joint that LOOKS great, and functions erratically, with
varying degrees of resistance as the joint heats up and cools down.
Ever had a tv/radio/sterio that you had to pound on to get working
properly? Chances are you're living with a cold solder joint!!
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen (who hates reflowing/resoldering circuit boards)
|