Hi Ben,
Welcome to the list. You will get your fill of opinions here, but more
than that, you will get a lot of help from owners and friends who care
about their cars as much as Garrison Keiler's Kitty Boutique, "For People
Who Care About Cats".
Chrome bumper cars are the "early" cars. The rubber bumpers came along
to meet USA ride-height and collision requirements, in 1974. Dates are
approximate.
Chrome bumper cars have two carbs, lower ride height, and less emissions
gear. Before 1967, there wasn't any at all.
MGBs evolved. At the beginning the engines were 3 main bearing, and the
trans were synchro on 2,3+4. Later came 5 mains, and then all four
speeds synchronised. Bonnets were originally very simple, but the driver
had to assemble the frame when needed, then clip on the top. Various
versions followed; eventually a top that was a one hand operation came to
be. All are, depending on opinion, pretty good tops or rotten, leaking
wretched tops. I think they are OK. Fit them properly and they're fine.
Heaters were standard equipment on the cars sent to USA. Again, if
properly maintained, 190 degree thermostat, all the rubber gaskets in
place, they work fine. (Or are useless)
If 5-speed is important, you will want to find a car with OverDrive.
MGs were 4 speed, but the OD gave you 5 speeds forward, or even 6 in some
years when it also operated in 3rd.
Engine life-it all depends on the care and feeding received by the
Previous Owner. One who didn't maintain well is known as a DPO, as in
Dreaded Previous Owner. Go by compression readings, exhaust smoke,
general tractability to determine time to overhaul.
Leather interior-for the first couple of years the seats were leather.
Later, vinyl. Moss Motors and others have interior kits in both leather
and naugahide. About the time the vinyl came into use, the ventilation in
the dashboard improved.
You're on your own for the CD player. If you want to drive the car, it's
probably a waste of money as the ride is, ahem, firm and the CD may not
accept that.
Suggest you look at Lindsay Porter's Guide to MGB Purchase and DIY
Restoration and at the Haynes MGB manual to help you select a car. Once
you are leaning toward one, buy the Factory Workshop Manual. Even if you
don't use it, it's wise to keep it in the car, in the unlikely event that
you are ever stranded somewhere.
Bob
On Sun, 28 Sep 1997 10:24:41 -0400 Benjamin Ruset <bruset@monmouth.com>
writes:
>
>Okay, how many times have you seen this thread?
>
>I'm strongly considering getting a MGB. I'd prefer the chrome bumpers,
>but
>if anybody could tell me a good reason why these cars are as
>good/superior
>to the earlier MGs, let me know!
>
>What I'm specificly looking for is:
>
>A solid car (little/no rust)
>Leather Interior
>Decent running engine (miles kinda irrelevant)
>5 speed manual (I _loathe_ automatics!)
>A top that doesn't let *too* much water in
>Heat in the winter!
>Room to install my in-dash CD player
>
>What is the typical longevity of the engine? I know that the typical
>longevity of the monsters that Detroit churned out between 1960-1975
>will
>run well over 150k miles. How does this compare to the MG's little
>engine?
>
>What should I look for when looking at a car for sale?
>
>Are there any FAQs for MGB owners?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>BEN RUSET - Oasis Creations
>http://www.infi-pos.com/~oasis
>-------------------------------------------
>"Up the airy mountain,
> Down the rushy glen,
> We daren't go a-hunting
> For fear of little men."
> --William Allingham
>-------------------------------------------
>
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