You can get into the torch generation for under 30 dollars.
Although propane will work it may take an hour to do the job. Potatoes can
be done in 2 minutes. Start by getting a Mapp torch and Mapp gas. Home
Depot carries both. Heat the nut till it's red hot about 5 seconds then
simply unscrew it. The secret is in the heat. Another trick is to put ice
on the red hot metal but this isn't usually necessary. When undoing small
bolts it's sometimes better to loosen them and tighten them a little at a
time. Heat works well for brake lines and bleeder valves. The downside is
that it may melt the rubber parts. The way I look at it though is what
good is a bleeder valve if it is stuck? If you have to rebuild the
cylinder then thats the price for saving it.
...Art
On Thu, 16 Oct 1997, Carol wrote:
> How about some "blue wrench" lessons? When I was disassembling the
> headlight assemblies for replacement I could have used a torch or some kind
> of bfh, but I needed the nut and bolt for reuse (it was Friday night! No
> parts on Saturday) AND I was working up close and personal with the front
> wings.
>
> When and where and how does one go about using the torch? I have one I
> bought to brown the top of stuffed baked potatoes. I'm sure it'll work on a
> stuck nut, too! But how?
>
> Carol
>
>
> At 12:38 PM 10/16/97 -0400, Art Pfenninger wrote:
> > Yes they share the same lube. To get the nut loose heat it with a
> >propane torch. Another solution is the same as you might use to get the
> >ball joint off. Put a hammer on one side of the nut and strike the other
> >side of the nut with another hammer. This will break the nut loose without
> >damageing it.
> >...Art
> >
> >On Thu, 16 Oct 1997 BobMGT@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> Just discovered a tear in one of the B's steering rack boots.
> >> Of course I don't want to drive with this, and I already had a
> >> spare set, so out came the wrenches. Well the side with
> >> the tear has a stuck lock nut, the one you have to loosen
> >> to get the tie rod out of the ball joint. The nut has a gash in it.
> >> Looks like it took a pretty good hit from some stone or something.
> >> I don't know if the nut is stuck from being deformed or from rust.
> >> Any ideas on getting it loose? I don't know what to do other than
> >> soaking it in "Blaster" and buying longer wrenches.
> >>
> >> BTW, does the rack and the boot share the same oil? In other
> >> words, will the steering pinion loose its lubrication if there is
> >> a tear in the boot? When you put the new boot on, do you
> >> put any kind of lube in it, or does filling the rack with oil take
> >> care of that?
> >>
> >> The rod inside the old boot looks like it is covered with reasonably
> >> clean oil, so I'm thinking I found the tear in time. I hope.
> >>
> >> Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
> >> EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
> >> 52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
> >> 71 MGB - finally home after 2 years in shop, AMGBA #96-12029
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
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