Scott,
I just took the head off my 73 Midget, although to store not to
rebuild (yet) so here's what I have found out.
Der schwarze Buccaneer wrote:
> At least one of you recommended I have the head tanked. What is
> that, where do I have it done, and about what does it run? There's quite
> a lot of the same carbon crusties on the head's valve recess areas,
> especially in #3's. The water passages are pretty slimy too.
A machine shop will do that for a small fee. For hot tanking I wasquoted $9,
and for some other process (to remove the rust) I was
quoted $9, so it's very reasonable. However it must be stripped bare.
> I don't currently have one of the nifty valve spring tools shown
> in my Haynes, where does one get one (hopefully locally)?
Auto Zone loan-a-tool should have it.
> My plan is to just work on the head and let the rings go until
> next summer. Is it wise to rebuild the head now, or should I just replace
> the one broken valve and rebuild it with the engine? I'm thinking hard
> about one of the no lead valve kits, such as from VB. Is there any mail
> order house out there with cheaper prices? I've got Moss' and Victoria's
> catalogs, which are comparable, but I'd like to be sure I'm getting the
> best deal out there (yeah, I'm pretty cheap right now, but I quite like
> eating in a regular fashion:).
Check Andrew lundgren's MG page, I don't know the address butgo to my links:
http://www.tecinfo.com/~tsherman/links.html and you can get
there. I was also quoted a very reasonable price for replacing the
seals (though not the valves, seats, and springs) for my midget's
head.
Good luck!
Tyson
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