Hey Listers:
It pains me to hear folks talk about MGB front fenders being welded in
place. Paul is correct, the *normal* installation of B fenders does not
include welding in the process!
Paul also mentions using a torch to get out those stubborn phillips
head screws that hold the door hinges in place. I will admit that, yes,
at times (when the frustration level was hitting a *new* high!) I have
used a torch to heat the door hinge bolts (the expansion/contraction can
loosen rust).
BUT I have found that using an impact wrench (with the right sized
phillips head) usually works. Us home mechanics tend to just grab any
old screwdriver and figure it will work. Impact wrenches (not air, but
driven by a compressed spring and hits from a hammer) can be purchased
at places like Harbour Freight and others for about $15.00.
If all else fails, drill out the head of the screw! I use a pilot
drill, about 3/16" for the door hinge screws, as I recall. Then use a
larger drill bit slightly smaller than the head of the screw. With this
method, there is no possibility of warping/distorting anything thru use
of the acetylene torch.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Jim Boyd
International Sportscar Components
Paradise, CA USA
Murch, Paul wrote:
>
> Tevor,
>
> I don't want to cause a fight, but I do not think that the front fenders
> are normally welded in place.
>
> I have recently removed the fenders from both the car that I am working
> on and a parts car. They are not welded on in any way. That is not
> to say that they are easiy to remove. To remove them the windshield
> needs to come off which is easiest to do if the dash is off. They are
> bolted inside at the very top which requires the dash to be removed
> anyway.
>
> BUT, BUT, BUT.........
>
> The fenders do not need to be removed. To do this you would remove the
> front wheel to give you room to get around. Use jackstands etc, (lest
> the list police complain). There is an inner splash guard that has
> 4 or 5 bolts that needs to be removed. This can be acomplished without
> trouble from the wheel well. When is is removed you have access to
> the backside of the hinges. It is 12 to 16 inches back there but there
> is one nut per hinge. I think that the nut is 11/16 inch. You will
> probably need every extention that you have to reach the nuts but it
> can be done.
>
> In my opinion the toughest part are the screws in the door jamb. On
> most every old car that I have worked on it seems like one of them has
> had the head sripped out and I have to find a torch to heat the sucker
> up.
>
> I would think that you could find some used hinges for pretty cheap out
> of a rusted car. I don't think that they changed any over the years so
> they should be available.
>
> Paul Murch
> 65 B
> There is an inner splash guard
>
> John McEwen wrote:
> >
> > Trevor, replacing the hinges requires removing the fenders which is not a
> > fun job as they are welded in places. I would take the car to a good body
> > shop and seek their opinion, or, if you can't take the car, see if you can
> > get a bodyman to come to it.
> >
> > John
> >
> > >I need some MGB door hinges in good condition,
> > >does anybody have spares?
> > >
> > > Or are they repairable when they get loose causing the
> > >door to have vertical motion that makes it hard to
> > >close the door?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >--
> > >Trevor Boicey
> > >Ottawa, Canada
> > >tboicey@brit.ca
> > >http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
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