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Choke, Battery, Etc.

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Choke, Battery, Etc.
From: Gary Davis <GDAVIS@ibr6gw80.gp.usbr.gov>
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 08:16:44 -0700
Greetings All . . . . .

As a novice, I was overwhelmed with confidence after converting my
dampers to tube shocks over the weekend.  Thanks for all of the advice.

Now, reality has returned and I have other issues to deal with now.  I
bought a new 12V battery (the car had already been converted) last
week.  The most powerful Group 26 battery I could find in Billings had
540 CCA.  Not what I wanted, but the best I could do at the time (I was
desperate to get my car on the road).  The battery seems to be weak or
I've got some other electrical problem.  I cleaned the terminals and
grounds well, put petroleum jelly on the terminals, and cleaned the fuse
block and lots of other connections.  If the car doesn't crank the first
time, it almost seems like the battery is going to die trying to crank it
afterward.  Also, after I drive it for a while, stop, and then crank it again
while still warm, it barely wants to turn the engine over.  What's going on
here . . . . ?

What is the protocol for using the manual choke?  Every time or only
when its cold?  I have "flooded" the carbs a couple of times because the
car didn't crank the first time, and I didn't know what to do with the choke
after that.  These are the situations when the new battery seems to
want to die on me.  Do you leave it all the way out when cold until
started?

I appreciate all your help in the recent past and look forward to your
replies on these issues.  Please don't assume anything about my
intelligence when you reply.

Thanks - Gary Davis ('70 MGB GT)



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