Could be a bad starter, take the car to a parts store and they
should be able to test it for free. It needs to be tested under load and
not off the car. If you need a starter you should be able to get a rebuilt
Lucas at the local store.
...Art
On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, Gary Davis wrote:
> Greetings All . . . . .
>
> As a novice, I was overwhelmed with confidence after converting my
> dampers to tube shocks over the weekend. Thanks for all of the advice.
>
> Now, reality has returned and I have other issues to deal with now. I
> bought a new 12V battery (the car had already been converted) last
> week. The most powerful Group 26 battery I could find in Billings had
> 540 CCA. Not what I wanted, but the best I could do at the time (I was
> desperate to get my car on the road). The battery seems to be weak or
> I've got some other electrical problem. I cleaned the terminals and
> grounds well, put petroleum jelly on the terminals, and cleaned the fuse
> block and lots of other connections. If the car doesn't crank the first
> time, it almost seems like the battery is going to die trying to crank it
> afterward. Also, after I drive it for a while, stop, and then crank it again
> while still warm, it barely wants to turn the engine over. What's going on
> here . . . . ?
>
> What is the protocol for using the manual choke? Every time or only
> when its cold? I have "flooded" the carbs a couple of times because the
> car didn't crank the first time, and I didn't know what to do with the choke
> after that. These are the situations when the new battery seems to
> want to die on me. Do you leave it all the way out when cold until
> started?
>
> I appreciate all your help in the recent past and look forward to your
> replies on these issues. Please don't assume anything about my
> intelligence when you reply.
>
> Thanks - Gary Davis ('70 MGB GT)
>
>
>
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