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Re: Eectrical Woes - Help!

To:, mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Eectrical Woes - Help!
From: DANMAS <>
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 00:28:03 EDT
In a message dated 4/30/98 7:35:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:

> When I turn the key, the only things that to work are the headlights, the
>  courtesy light in the middle console with the switch and the fuel pump.
>  Although, shouldn't the fuel pump stop after it fills the carbs?  It slows 
> down
>  but does not stop.  Absolutly no sound from the solenoid or starter. No 
> turnn 
>  signals or heater motor.  I forgot to check the wipers.  


First of all, the pump should definitely stop after it fills the carbs.  If
you are not spilling fuel out somewhere, I would suspect a faulty diaphragm in
the pump, but that is actually out of my area of expertise.  As to the
electrical problems, I strongly suspect two things: 1) the ignitions switch is
faulty, and 2) you have some miswiring.

The headlights and the courtesy light should work with the key on or off, as
should the hazard switch and, I believe, the horns.  The fuel pump should only
work when the key is on.  The turn signals and the heater should only work
when the key is on.  The starter, of course, should only work when the key is
in the start position.
>  When I turn the key on the tach pegs itself. Is this related to the rest of
> the
>  problems or something else? The car did come with another tach, and I am
>  sure which was actually in the car when I tore it down.
Either the tach is bad or miswired.

>  Any advice out there on a good starting place?  My ignition switch does not
>  seem to have any definite detents. Once you turn it on it moves back and 
> forth
>  the whole range with little or no resistance.  

My guess is that the mechanical portion of the switch, i.e., the key portion,
is not connected to the electrical portion, i.e., the switch.  You might try
taking these two apart and operating the electrical portion with a screwdriver
to see if it is the switch or the mechanical connection that is faulty.

Otherwise, just start tracing wiring, with a schematic in hand, starting with
the ignition switch and working forward, first making sure you have power to
the ignition switch via the brown wire.

Let me know if I can be of further help.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74

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