In a message dated 5/3/98 10:47:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jimbb88@erols.com
writes:
Jim,
Excellent answer! I would add a couple of things to it, though.
> In my car, I run a wire from the fuse box, fused side, to a fan stat, an
> adjustable thermo switch, that controls when the fan comes on.
If you want the fan to come on and off only when the key is on, connect this
wire to the fuse with the green wires. If you want it to come on and off
anytime, key on or not, connect the wire to the fuse with the purple wires.
> I run a #12
> wire from the battery terminal on the starter to the "C-1" terminal or
> #30, on the relay.
I recommend adding an inline fuse in the wire above, located as close to the
starter terminal as practical. Using a #12 wire, the fuse should be no larger
than 20 amp, preferably just a little larger than the current draw of the fan.
If you are interested, I'll pass on a little tip I use to avoid having to
splice the fuse holder into the #12 wire. I like a neat installation, and
visible splices are just not neat looking (nothing wrong with them
functionally, they just look bad!).
I buy heavy duty fuse holders from the local auto parts store (I can give you
the brand/part # if you like, I just don't have it handy at the moment). Cut
the wires off about 1 inch from the holder. Take the holder apart and remove
the fuse contacts and the shortened wires. Remove the insulation from the
wires, and spread the individual strands apart. Lock the contacts in a vice,
very carefully to avoid damage, and pull the center strand out with a pair of
needle nose pliers. This first strand will be rather hard to pull, but once
it is gone, the rest get easier. The center strand pulls much easier than an
outer strand. After you have pulled a few strands around the center, the rest
just fall out. With the needle nose pliers, open the crimp on the contacts,
insert the end of your wire, and re-crimp and solder. Place the contacts back
in the holder, and you now have an inline fuse with no splices, and correct
color coded wire.
If anyone is interested, I can draw up the schematic/wiring diagram for the
fan circuit in CorelDRAW and post it to you as a JPG file.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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