Hey all.
I've gone and done it again. Decided to change the lower
right ball joint on my 300zx last night (around 4:30 or
so). Everything was going nice and smoothly until it came
time to actually remove the BJ from the transverse link. It
appears the ball joint has rusted to the link, and I just
can't get it out. First I tried WD40 (Yes I know, but it's
all I had on hand), then I tried some spit.(patooey ya
bastard) That apparently didn't work either (although it
appears it was just as effective). The BFH did nothing more
than piss off the neighbors.
What I plan to do tonight (Yes, I drive the Midget to work.
Not that I wouldn't have anyway - - it's such a beautiful
day) is to soak it with some PB Blaster and then heat it up
with a propane torch and rapid cool it via water.
Here's the question (finally) .... I understand the heating
method work by the metal contracting at different speeds
during the cooling process. How do I keep the TL from
shrinking faster (and more) than the ball joint and thus
making my job just a little more hellish? Should I even
try this, or should I just keep going withthe PB Blaster?
And if I can't find PB Blaster, what's a good alternative?
Michael
'78 Midget (to the rescue)
'87 300zx (sitting at home on stands)
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