Nick, you'll probably find that there are as many opinions about the rocker
bolts as there are members on this list. So I'll give you my opinion!
I know the bolts are an additional cost and you have already spent a fortune on
the head, but I would replace them. I also would replace the head bolts with
new ones. If you replace the head bolts you need to recess the hole in the
block were the bolts go. Over the years the steel in the block will "pull" up a
bit around the head bolts and cause the head not to seal correctly. Do not
tighten the head bolts in the head.
Good luck.
Larry Hoy
Denver, CO. USA
1969 MGB Roadster
1987 Jaguar XJ6 VDP
"It's not how fast you go, it's how fast you go fast"
=========================================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Nick Coleman
> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 1998 5:22 PM
> To: JustBrits@aol.com; Larry Hoy; Harlan Jillson; mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Cylinder Head Install ..... Arggg
>
>
> Ed/Larry/Harlan,
>
> Thanks for the advise. I actually picked up an easy out this morning.
> Started to drill the tap hole into the stud. But, the metal was a very hard
> and the bit wasn't going in. So, I've decided I'd better take it to a
> machine shop tomorrow just as you suggest. (Ed, it is the #1 rocker stud.)
>
> A friend is also lending me a stud puller. I was going to back out the
> head/rocker studs and install them as Harlan suggested.
>
> The friend (ex-professional racer) previously suggested that I buy a new
> complete set of hardened head/rocker studs and replace the old ones. He
> said the factory studs were a bit on the weak side. But, I'm not building a
> race engine, so wasn't inclined to do that until the rocker stud broken
> (40lb torque). Is that something that I should do? Or, is the broken stud
> a bit of a flux?
>
> Thanks again for the advice,
>
> Nick
> 73B
>
>
>
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