Mark,
There is someone on the list with a tagline that puts across the point that if
you find one problem you may not have found the only problem. With that
thought in mind and based on your description, I would not be surprised if you
had several unrelated problems. The car suddenly dying and the instruments
working intermittently sounds suspiciously like loose connection. I'd get out
the test light and volt meter and start at the fuse box and work your way back
to under the dash (BTW, consider replacing the fuse box if it is dingy/dirty.
It's cheap and simple.). Clean and tighten all your connections along the
way. One thing I would suspect here is a loose ignition wire (from the
ignition switch back) but that's just a guess (I've had that problem). BTW,
you can get a good digital (preferred) volt meter from radio shack for about
$15. The model I have is called the pocket digital multimeter # 22-179A. I
rarely go near a car's electric's without it and a test light.
The fuel gauge not working is a problem I've just sorted out with help from
this list and I cannot emphasize the need to check the simple stuff (like make
sure the gauge is connected. First, it is probably not the gauge. Second,
clean the connection at the sending unit and at the gauge (my problem was just
a dirty connection at the sending unit). Then check to see what reading you
are getting from the sending unit - it should read about 10 volts. If it is
not you may have a bad sending unit. There is another test for the sending
unit Rick Brown just told me about - reverse the connections at the sending
unit and if the gauge goes up to full the sending unit is bad. I was unable
to do this test on my sending unit as it is has single connection (77 and on)
but sounds like a test appropriate for an earlier two terminal sending unit.
You can check your voltage regulator with the volt meter. It should read
about 10 volts. It should be located on the drivers side inside fire wall.
However, your problem does not sound like a voltage regulator problem.
Hope some of this helps. Welcome to the fold and enjoy your GT.
Dr. Doug
69 C Roadster
69 C GT
69 B Roadster
76 B
77 B <-- New Item
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net On Behalf Of Mark Jones
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 1:38 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: New MGB GT Owner questions
Hi everyone. This is my first submission to MG Owners since this is my
first MG.
I bought a Teal Blue 1973 MGB GT a couple weeks ago and have already put 500
miles on it. It had been pretty much sitting for the past two years in a
garage with an occasional drive. It had 71,400 miles on it when I bought
it.
I do have a question that I am hoping someone can help my with. I was
driving home yesterday and the car just died. I tried starting it but no
fire. I could hear the fuel pump running, but no spark. I let it sit for
about 20 minutes and tried again and it sprang to life. Is this a coil
problem?
Once on the road again the tachometer and the temperature needles would
starting moving from normal to zero and back up again intermittently. For
one moment to tact read zero, the next 3500 rpm. What is going on? Is my
voltage regulator shot? By the way my fuel gauge doesn't work so it always
reads E.
Thanks for your help.
Mark Jones
Fredericton, New Brunswick
73 MGB GT
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